VILLAGE CUISINE, 145 HIGH STREET

A small restaurant in contemporary style (wooden floors, light wood & chrome furniture etc), it has been established since 1991. It seats forty at a pinch, which when it if full means it is quite tight. And it often gets full because it’s good. The menu offers much more than the standard dishes (which, of course, it also lists). Things like Fish Samosa, Rangila Mussels and King Prawn Malabari feature amongst the starters, while amongst the main courses are dishes such as Badshahi Chicken, Hariali Chicken/Lamb, Adhar Ka Chicken, Gosht Kata Masala and a number of other different creations. They also offer the Goan dish of Xacuti.

It’s one thing to have an innovative menu, but another to offer a taste that is different (rather than a standard dish masquerading under a posh name). They did this very successfully. The Hariali Chicken (marinated in fresh coriander, spinach, mint and chillis) was delicious. The content of the marinade gave it its greenish colour, and the taste was an interesting blend of coriander and mint, with the underlying bite of the chilli. Lovely. Shahi Narial Chicken (simmered in coconut milk) is a delicately spiced mild curry, ideal for those who like mild curry and reminiscent of Sri Lankan dishes without the hot spices. Their Adhar Ka Chicken (cooked with ginger) is one of their own specialities and again recommended. The Vegetable Niramish was a good selection of nicely cooked and spiced vegetables, while the Tarka Dall was good, if a little oily (although I prefer the thinner, oilier version to the thick porridge-like versions often served).

Service quick and efficient, if not particularly friendly (but it was a busy Saturday night). Prices and portions about average, which, for the quality of the food, I thought was good value.

All in all a very good meal, but be sure to book if you want to table.

Malcolm Wilkins – May 2004