An awning covers a carpeted approach to the entrance, flanked by tub plants, where the front door is opened by a saluting doorman in regal Indian dress. Car park behind takes about a dozen or so cars, but as all the patrons seem to have large cars it can be a bit tight as the car park is generally full (we squeezed into the last place at 8pm on a Thursday evening!) Arrivals are shepherded to the bar (The Polo Bar) to have a pre-dinner drink and look at the menu. Crowded right through the evening and booking is strongly recommended, if not essential.

The dining area, in two parts, is superbly decorated like an old colonial Polo Club of the British Raj, with slowly revolving ceiling fans, polo sticks and hats on the walls together with old photographs of polo teams, cane furniture, palms in copper planters and real orchids on the tables giving a splendid atmosphere. (Even the toilets have pictures from the Karma Sutra decorating the walls!)

The menu contains not only many of the familiar dishes, but many more unusual and imaginative dishes. Starter of Chicken Nilgiri Tikka was an intriguing shade of green, caused by being marinated in mint and coriander, and was extremely interesting seeming to have little taste at first but with the flavours (not hot) coming through as the pieces were eaten. Other starters were equally good - Fish Punjabi crisp and spicy and the Aloo Tikki (two large potato and lentil patties) were very tasty. Personally I found the Keema Khumb (mushrooms stuffed with minced lamb) a little uninteresting on their own, but they were greatly enhanced by the addition of the accompanying tamarind chutney. One companion declared the Chicken Chat as the best he has had.

Main dishes were also excellent. I rated the best as either my Raan Jaipuri (extremely tender large succulent slices of leg of lamb cooked with garlic, ginger, cumin and mustard seeds in a thick rich sauce), or my wife’s Rara Gosht which was equally tender pieces of lamb with a distinct ginger flavour in a dark, thick sauce. Both were delicious. Also declared delicious by the recipient, although rather mild and sweet for my taste buds, was the Murgh Maharaja (a mild dish of chicken stuffed with spinach, apricots and yoghurt). The most akin to dishes found in standard restaurants were the Dum Pukht Gosht (cubes of lamb cooked in the Dum style) and Chicken Gulabi which, despite the names, were like standard (but very tasty) Lamb Curry and Chicken Tikka Masala respectively. All vegetable dishes - Mixed Vegetables, Aloo Gobi, Khumb Bhaji (mushroom bhaji) and Navratan Masala (marinated mushrooms cooked in cream and cheese with fruit) - were all excellent with distinct flavours. The only thing which did not suit our taste was the Peshwari Nan which was extremely sweet and overloaded with ground almond but no fruit (although to be fair this is how the menu describes it).

Portions ample and service efficient and polite (although I would describe is as not particularly friendly apart from the welcoming doorman - we were all treated in a polite and business like fashion but no smiles or friendly chit chat). Prices are above average as one would expect, but not excessive for the style and quality of the restaurant and its location. However, a 12½% service is compulsorily added, which does tend to bump it up a bit. One tip worth remembering is that the drinks in the bar are put on a tab to be added to the final bill and as such, attract the 12½% service charge. However, if they are paid for at the bar (which is not encouraged but can be done if requested) then the service charge is not added. This can save a considerable amount if there are several rounds for a large party!

All in all a splendid up market restaurant serving first class Indian (rather than high street Bangladeshi) food. Not a place for the tight fisted or those on a budget, but just right for an above average evening or that special occasion.

Malcolm Wilkins - May 2001