TAJ MAHAL, 57 VICTORIA ROAD

One of the older established Indian restaurants in Cornwall (probably the third or fourth in the county after Penzance and Falmouth) and under the same ownership as the restaurant of the same name in Penzance.

Small frontage and small inside being divided into just seven single raffia-screened alcoves. Although ideal for a discreet dinner for two it would probably be cramped if full to capacity, which even then would only seat about 30. The decor is rather faded but it retains the old style Indian restaurant atmosphere. No pretence of grandeur but it has a nice ‘lived in’ atmosphere and I’ve always liked it here which is why I always visit when in the area (7th visit in recent years). I've never been disappointed with the food. Indeed, it is reputed (and was backed up by press cuttings although these have now been removed) that Cliff Richard once ate there and professed it to be the best Indian meal he had eaten whilst on tour!

The menu is fairly standard and over the years I've tried many of the dishes. The Onion Bhajias (2), served with salad and mint raita, are always crisp, spicy and contain plenty of onion. A selection of my previous reports have stated that Prawn Puri starter is about  average while Tikkas are tasty (particularly Lamb Tikka starter). Of main dishes I have reported that Chicken Pathia has been very flavoursome with distinct sweet and sharp tastes and very hot! (but I like it that way). Peshwari Lamb (very tender pieces of tandoori lamb grilled and fried with chopped onions and peppers) was a curious red colour and served sizzling in a karahi. Slightly on the salty side but very tasty none the less while Chicken Dhansak has been hot and full of flavour in a good, thick sauce.

Vegetable side dish of  Vegetable Bhaji invariably contains a good variety of vegetables, well cooked and nicely spiced and delicious. I have also previously described the Aloo Ghabi (sic) as delicious. Rice standard stuff (although vegetable rice on last visit proved a much better option at only marginally greater cost) and  the Peshwari Nan on previous visit I described as containing a lot of coconut (shredded, rather than the more usual creamed) and a good fruit filling. 

My only criticisms over the years is that on occasions (but not always, and not on the most recent visit) the food has been very oily and would be much improved presentationally if the excess were drained before serving.

In the past I have always found the service to be good although in recent years not particularly friendly. Although the food was served efficiently enough the waiter - and the head waiter/manager has been the same over a number of years - is usually unsmiling throughout, sometimes bordering on surly. Certainly not as friendly or welcoming as I recall on my earlier visits, but as they have got increasingly busier over the years this is perhaps a reflection of the increased pressures. 

Prices have always been very reasonable and portions generous. In fact on our previous visit last year we didn’t finish and took the remains away with us (containers willingly provided).

Still a very good formula curry in a nice, homely restaurant, which hasn't changed a bit since my fist visit many years ago

Malcolm Wilkins - April 2008