SPICE LOUNGE, 76 PRESTON STREET, FAVERSHAM

A modern, contemporary style restaurant seating about 60. The decor could be described as minimalist, but it's relaxing and comfortable. Apart from two tables set in an alcove near the entrance (which has an attractive encased waterfall feature), the seating is in a long dining area. Surprisingly there was plenty of space at 8.15 on a Saturday evening, as the menu is much more interesting than the average high street menu, with many creative and unusual dishes and ingredients (for example, it offers ostrich, as well as duck, crab, red snapper, sea bass  mango, paw paw etc.). However, the menu contains some very flamboyantly worded and misleading, indeed false, statements in places - a point that I will expand upon at the end of this report. Having said that, the food was generally very good, so I will begin with that, as this is the most important aspect of any restaurant.

Starters of Onion Bhaji and Vegetable Potli ('cumin tempered potatoes and carrots spiced with chat massala') made a good start. The Bhajias (two large round style) were slightly different, as although the crisp outside covered a moist interior, they were pleasantly spiced, light and 'oniony' rather than stodgy as many bhaijas with moist insides tend to be. They were also very attractively presented with a well-arranged salad garnish (cucumber cut in swirls etc.) and the plate artistically drizzled with thin lines of a tamarind-based sauce. The Vegetable Poti was different, being three small crisp upright pastry parcels (Chinese dim sum or dumpling style in appearance) with a tasty interior. Again, these were attractively presented with the plate drizzled with a greenish sauce.

For one main dish we had the Dum Pukht Lamb Biriani, predominantly because the menu (take-away menu, and the restaurant's web site) make great play of the fact that their cooking includes the 'legendary Dum Pukht cuisine of India'. This was a claim that I disbelieved (more of the reasons for this later), but naturally had to try it. When ordering I questioned the waiter over the cooking method (Dum Pukht is cooked in a tightly sealed clay pot, which should be cracked open in front of the diner when served), and he readily admitted that this wasn't cooked that way, but fried and then put in a standard serving pot. With a smile he said "it's the Bangladeshi version!". I was also a little disconcerted to see that the Beef Xacuti was described as 'a very popular Bangladeshi dish'. Perhaps it has become popular in Bangladesh, but I nevertheless queried the authenticity of this and pointed out that Xacuti wasn't Bangladeshi at all, but a Goan dish. Again the waiter laughed merrily and agreed with me. Although a little dubious as to what I might get, I ordered it nonetheless.

Well, having had it accepted that the menu descriptions of both these dishes were misleadingly inaccurate, I have to say that both dishes were very good, particularly the biriani. The lamb in the biriani was plentiful and almost melting in tenderness, and the spicing aromatically subtle and delicious. It was served with a large bowl of wonderful Riata. The Beef Xacuti was not as I know Xacuti, being in a much milder sauce (although there were one or two chillies in it, but al dente and therefore thrown in towards the end rather than being cooked in it), and no discernible coconut background flavour. Nevertheless, it was tasty, if a little mild for my liking and expectations, and the large chunks of lean beef again extremely tender. Despite the inaccuracy of the descriptions, they were both very good main dishes indeed.

We also had a Vegetable Niramish, which was OK although rather bland, a bit salty, heavy on the spinach and with a curious underlying flavour that I couldn't quite put my finger on (my wife didn't like it, although I found it OK ). The 'Tarkawala Dhall'  was a fairly standard Tarka Dall. Vegetable Rice was also of a good standard.

The prices were a little above the average, but the portions were generous and nicely presented. The service was excellent - charmingly friendly, welcoming and efficient. Even the water that we ordered came swiftly in a large jug with glasses primed with ice and lime slices. I couldn't fault it.

And so to the one thing that I would criticize -  the menu descriptions, and in particular their claim that they offer the Dum Pukht method of cooking - something that is not only extravagantly deceptive but untrue. The take-away menu and their website put great emphasis on the fact that at this restaurant you can sample the Dum Pukht style of cooking. To quote - ' Our methods include the legendary Dum Pukht cuisine, or 'food of the kings', created by the Moghuls. This is a 200 year old style of cooking deemed so spectacular that until now only a few places were able to serve it successfully.'.....' Dum Pukht.... represents the pinnacle of Indian dining, and the preparation is so special that it is only passed down from generation to generation by word of mouth, and its execution is so demanding that only the finest of Indian Chefs are able to master this art form.' Sounds very impressive, doesn't it!? But while many people may not know much about the Dum Pukht method of cooking (it is true that it is several hundred years old, had royal patronage and the technique handed down from father to son), surely only the most gullible would believe that 'one of the finest Indian chefs', who has had the secret of this 'demanding' style of cooking' passed down through his family and 'mastered this art form', and which only a few places are able to serve successfully, would be plying his trade in a small restaurant in a road off Faversham High Street!   

Secondly, in common with most high street Indian restaurants, it is Bangladeshi run (something that is clear from the menu - for example, listing Xacuti as a popular Bangladeshi dish!). In short, you can't sample the Dum Pukht style of cooking at this restaurant, and to claim that you can do so is, to put it mildly, fibbing. All you can sample is a very good biriani, and to blithely try and get off the hook by saying 'it's the Bangladeshi version' is just not good enough and does not get over that fact that the menu is deceitful.

I could go on about the menu - I've mentioned the erroneous description of Xacuti - but the fact that they also claim to be an 'award winning restaurant' (don't most of them!) with a Top 100 mention in the British Curry Awards is also perhaps not so spectacular as it sounds. The British Curry Awards started their profitable enterprise (tickets for this years event start at £115) in only in 2006, and I have been told (although have no personal experience) that a top 100 mention is promised for some payment. (It's worth mentioning here that Pat Chapman's long-established Curry Club has been giving awards, which include a Top 100 category, since 1992. These awards are free, and therefore totally untainted by the passing over of money.) Also, the claim that this puts the restaurant in the top 100 of '20,000 Indian restaurants throughout the country' is also somewhat exaggerated and egotistical, as while I can't find any definitive count, the the usual estimate of Indian restaurants is something less that 10,000.   

While I applaud enterprise, which inevitably includes marketing superlatives, I do get irritated when it descends to downright deceit. However, although their marketing strategy is questionable and rankles, I shouldn't knock them too much, as at the end of the day I enjoyed the meal, and the service was excellent. It's just a pity that they have to use such dubious and deceptive marketing tactics to gain customers - they don't have to, as the restaurant is good enough to do just as well without it.

Malcolm Wilkins - August 2009