These premises first opened as an Indian restaurant in June 1998, being called The Mango Tree and offering something quite different from the average high street Indian restaurant. It was modern in design and offered innovative and more upmarket dishes created by a chef who had been brought from India after training there with the Oberoi Hotel Group. Unfortunately this move to creativity did not catch on and my first report, while praising the endeavour and food, commented that in my view the end of Gillingham High Street, opposite the station and a couple of rough looking pubs was not the right situation for such a restaurant (with apologies to the people of Gillingham, my report commented that Gillingham High Street was more likely to have ‘a gallon of lager and a vindaloo’ customers than curry cognoscenti). Two subsequent visits confirmed this view as it was similarly empty on both occasions despite the owner lowering prices and extending the menu to include what he termed as ‘the old favourites’. To quote from one of my later reports - "despite offering, an imaginative menu, a chef imported from India and special offers it continues to lack the vital ingredient of customers".

These reports were prophetic as it closed shortly afterwards and was re-opened under different owners and called Tiffin. This did not last long either - too short for me to visit so I can’t comment on what that restaurant was like - and after closing the premises remained shut for about a year before being opened at the end of 2001 by the current owners and renamed Spice Court. The current owner is related by marriage to the Choudhury family, who run four good up-market restaurants, so it has a useful link if not actually one of the same chain.

The interior is as previously - interestingly different in shape with several sections, a number of circular tables and refreshingly unlike the traditional line up of tables on either side as one enters. It has a non smoking area - always good point, and caters well for disabled (ie a ramp outside and a separate disabled toilet) which is again another plus point. There is a sizeable and comfortable bar and reception area (where an electric organ was being unobtrusively and very competently played, probably as it was Saturday night) beyond which the dining area is modern, roomy, bright and fresh with brightly coloured plain walls, inset ceiling lights, good quality crisp white table linen, glasses and cutlery and smart waiters. It exudes an impression of quality above that of the average high street curry house, which indeed proved to be the case.

Unlike the original menu of the Mango Tree, this has reverted to ‘the old favourites’ with one or two less usual offerings. One of these was Mangalorean Crab - a little sandcastle of minced crab and rice - which was lightly and subtly spiced so as to impart some spicing flavour but not to overcome the crab flavour. The other starter was Onion Bhajias (two large round type) which I have to say were the best onion bhajias I have had for a very long time. They were crisply fried to perfection all the way through, not the least greasy and very tasty. They were served with an interesting raita (which had a slight mustard flavour) and each was accompanied by a small crisp salad garnish.

My main course of Chicken Dhansak was in a lentil coloured sauce and tongue tinglingly hot although not totally mouth numbing as to mask the good, underlying flavour of spiciness and lentil. The other dish of Lamb Pathia was a medium dish (interesting as many restaurants serve Pathia and Dhansak of similar hotness) in a dark, slightly sweetish and very flavoursome sauce. Both were first class. The Tarka Dall was absolutely delicious with a lovely underlying garlic flavour while the Subzi (mixed vegetable bhajee) were a lightly cooked and gently spiced mixture of vegetables making an excellent accompaniment. Rice and Chapattis were fresh and moist to complete a well prepared meal.

The prices were very reasonable, particularly for the type of restaurant - and in some cases less than a bog standard high street curry house (for example, the two first class onion bhajias were only £1.90 - and absolute bargain for such specimens) and the portions were perfectly adequate. Service was excellent (indeed, when booking a table I explained that we would only have 75 minutes before having to catch a train and asked whether this was a realistic proposition. I was assured it was and the waiter remembered all this when we arrived and despite a party of twelve ordering before us, ensured we were served and dealt with in good time for our train).

All in all a first class restaurant and meal and a gem in an unlikely location. It may have only a family link to the Choudhury’s ‘Bengal’ chain but in my view it is as good, and possibly even better - it’s certainly better value. Although the menu has been ‘dumbed down’ from the original Mango Tree experiment in innovation it is still definitely not lager lout territory and they deserve to do well and last longer than their predecessors - I certainly hope so.

Malcolm Wilkins - July 2002