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SHAAN, 13-15 KIRKGATE Newark’s newest, and only the second, Indian restaurant opening about a year ago. It has a trendy modern design and decor - very open and airy, plain orange coloured walls with modern art paintings, small inset ceiling lights, modern light wood tables (without tablecloths) and a few potted palm dotted about. Rather like a wine bar and it reminded me of some restaurants in the Shere -Khan chain (particularly the one in Chester) but I was assured it is not linked to any other restaurant. The owner said it seats 96 but, unless there is another seating area, my rough count made it in the seventies. Whatever the number it is large and airy with plenty of room between tables. The soft and unobtrusive piped music was classical - it’s not often I eat a curry listening to the 1812 overture! The large single sheet menu lists most of the usuals. After standard pops & picks the Onion Bhaji starters (four small and round type) were excellent, being small enough to be crisp right through and well spiced. The other starter - Mossala Mossa (‘tiny pieces of chicken and meat combined with most exotic spices and served in a crispy parcel’) was also enjoyable, although a little different from the image the description had conjured up. It was like chicken chat in a half folded and un-crisp puri. Nevertheless, it was spicy, tasty and quite substantial. For main courses we ordered Chicken Jammiri (chicken cooked in orange juice and onions) because it was one of the few dishes on the menu of which I hadn’t heard, and a Dhansak because it is one of my favourites. In the event this was probably not the best combination as they were not too dissimilar, both with an underlying sweetness. In appearance they looked the opposite to what they were - the Dhansak being in a lighter coloured and more ‘orangey’ looking sauce while the Jammiri was a darker colour. However the Dhansak was spicier and hotter whereas the Jammiri was relatively mild and did have a slight orange flavour. Nevertheless, it could easily have passed for a Dhansak with the former’s spiciness and hotness. Having said that, both were nicely flavoursome and enjoyable. The accompanying Vegetable Bhaji was excellent - a mix of lightly fried spiced vegetables in onion seeds and just the right consistency - fresh, light, al dente texture and not oily. Portions quite sufficient and prices maybe marginally higher than a bog standard high street curry house but reasonable for the style of restaurant. Service prompt, efficient and pleasantly friendly. A very pleasant meal in a pleasant restaurant which is a good and, I am sure welcome, addition to the limited curry scene in a town the size of Newark. Malcolm Wilkins - July 2002
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