THE ROYAL TANDOORI, 50 NEW ROAD, CHATHAM

This restaurant opened in August 1998 taking over from the short-lived Monuments of Bangladesh. The current chef – Jakir Chowdhury – has won the Medway heat of the National Curry Chef competition in 200, 2001 and 2002. I was one of the judges on each occasion, but fortunately when I visited the restaurant after his second success I was not recognised (Jakir presumably being in the kitchen).

The restaurant is situated in a former pub and seats forty in comfortable surroundings and décor, the main feature of the restaurant being a chandelier suspended in a mirrored recess in the ceiling. We called in without reservations as it was a Thursday night and found it surprisingly crowded considering it is not in the town centre and unlikely to attract passing trade. That itself was a good sign.

The menu was interesting, listing a number of unusual dishes amongst the old favourites. Popadoms and five varieties of pickles to start were fine if a little expensive. However, the starters were all excellent. Mt wife’s favourite of Onion Bhajis comprised four bhajias, which were very crisp and tasty, and one of the better versions we have had for a while. My Chicken Tikka Chat was extremely tangy, while our friend’s Tandoori Mix – a selection of Chicken Tikka, Lamb Tikka and Kebabs – tasted good, or at least the piece I managed to scrounge did. The Chicken Tikka had been well marinated, the colour permeating well into the chicken when cut.

The main dishes were all first class. Chicken Bhuna was medium strength and a good, well-rounded flavour. Although a fairly dry dish, the meat was succulent with fresh coriander sprinkled on top. My Chicken Tikka Chilli Masala was a rich red colour, very spicy and with plenty of green chillis cooked in it, making it pleasingly hot. The chicken was delicious and was an excellent balance between being hot enough to set the tongue tingling but not so much as to overpower the flavour the spices gave it. Our friend had an equally flavoursome chicken dish, the name of which now escapes me as I write this (not one that I had come across before and for some reason doesn’t feature in the take-away version of the menu I took with me as a reminder), but I recall it had a herby flavour and all of us agreed it was very tasty.

Vegetable side dishes were equally good – Mixed Dry Vegetable a good selection, and the Chana Masala a delight, with the chickpeas having a buttery flavour and almost melting in the mouth.

Service efficient and friendly, particularly the head waiter, and the main dishes served up in attractive leaf-shaped bowls that held generous portions.

All in all an excellent meal and one can see why it is so popular.

Malcolm Wilkins – October 2001

NB. Since my visit Jakir Chowdhury won the Medway Curry Chef competition for a third time in 2002, but not long after he (or the restaurant) was in trouble with the local Environmental Health authorities, and did, I believe, get some adverse press publicity. I presume it was all sorted out eventually, but Jakir was not in further competitions (perhaps not surprising as the National competition originates from the Environmental Health authority), and I have not been since. Whether it has overcome the undoubted damage the publicity must have done or Jakir is still there I can’t say. I hope so, as he can certainly cook!t