ROYAL SPICE, ASHFORD ROAD, BETHERSDEN

This restaurant opened in December 2005, and is under same ownership as the Sher-e-Bangla in Crayford & Longfield, The Spice Cottage in East Peckham, and the Akash in Chatham. It is situated in a former pub about a mile from the village on the Tenterden side. It therefore offers a large car park, which is necessary, as being away from the village I imagine most customers have to drive there. Inside is spacious, airy, modern in design and light in decor. It has seating for 110 people.

The menu provides a comprehensive list of all the usuals. Onion Bhajee starters (two flat round bhajias) were fairly standard if slightly dry, and OK. Chicken Chat had a nice sharp tangy taste (although a lot of cucumber in the sauce, which is fine if you like cucumber although if, like me, it repeats on you then it may be a little too much). The Garlic Mushroom Pakora was good, with plenty of garlic flavour.

The main dish of Chicken Haripuri was a pleasantly flavoured medium strength curry cooked with mushrooms. Tandoori Chicken was fine, with an unusual tang to it, although slightly on the salty side. My only disappointment was the Chicken Dansak, which was very basic pieces of chicken in a thick soup of lentils but without much definitive spicing flavours. In fact it tasted of grilled chicken and lentils and did not, in my view, come up to the menu description of being 'sweet, sour and fairly spicy'. It was listed under the 'Traditional Dishes' section of the menu, which were all slightly cheaper than the rest, so perhaps they are all more basic.

The vegetable dishes were very good - Mixed Vegetable Bhajee (surprisingly not listed on the menu, but they will do it) was good, but my favourite was the Sylheti Bhajee. This comprised a mixture of carrots, potato, peppers and green chillis and was excellent - for me the best spiced dish of the lot. All other accompaniments - popadoms, rice, chapatti - good standard stuff.

The service was fine. The food was served on warm plates (so often the plates are cold) bearing the restaurant logo, while the owner walks the floor, meeting greeting and otherwise briefly visiting each table, and the manager (I believe the owner's son) is also friendly. Prices and portions about average.

All in all a pleasant restaurant serving good average standard formula curries. Although not sufficiently above the average to tempt me to make the 80 mile round journey to visit again, I would certainly use it again if in the area.

Malcolm Wilkins - June 2006