THE ROYAL, 27 HIGH STREET, MARDEN

Residents of the small village of Marden can think themselves very fortunate, as this is the second Indian restaurant to be set up in the village, opening about five years ago in competition with the much longer established Marden Tandoori.

A pleasant looking restaurant seating about 65 in two comfortable sections (and they tell me they also have a garden which can be utilized in good weather if need be). Good menu with all the favourites plus one or two different names.

Overall the food was a good formula curry standard. Tandoori Chicken well marinated and very tasty, Chicken Tikka Dansak delicious in a thick, spicy and hot sauce, Tarka Dall a good version of the dish and just the right consistency – not too thick and custard-like, but not too thin – and the Niramish again a pleasantly spiced, good selection of vegetables (which unusually did not have any potato amongst it). Standard rice and accompaniments, although I did think the poppadoms seemed particularly crisp and pleasant. Perhaps imagination, as providing they’re crisp there is not usually much to comment on, but I was conscious that these seemed a touch above the average.

Prices about average and plentiful portions. Service friendly and efficient, and all in all the people of Marden are lucky to have two Indian restaurants in such a small village, and two that provide a good standard of formula curry is a bonus. It makes for a difficult decision next time I am in Marden at supper time!

Malcolm Wilkins – July 2004