RASOI-GHAR Indian Kitchen, 12 MILTON ROAD, GRAVESEND

Yet another change of restaurant/name for the restaurant at this address, so just for those who may be interested in the history perhaps I should preface the report by outlining the remarkable history of Indian restaurants on this site. An Indian restaurant has been established on this site for almost as long as I can remember, but has seen many changes in that time. Originally, in the dim mists of time gone by, it opened as The Lalbaag (the third Indian restaurant to open in a town that is now awash with them). This lasted for many years, but closed in about 1993 when it remained empty for a while, until it re-opened as The Red Fort. This only lasted a few months before closing, only to re-open shortly afterwards as The Gravesham Tandoori. This again was short lived and the premises closed again, again remaining empty for a while. Eventually the Phoenix rose from the ashes and in about 1998/99 it re-opened once more, this time reverting (almost) to its original name as The New Lalbaag.  Curiously it changed its name again before long, this time to become Curry Queen Tandoori. Again this did not last too long before it closed again, once more to re-open shortly after (in approximately 2000) with the name New Lalbaag restored. This ran for a number of years until about May 2005, when it changed to Sizzlers. This only lasted a couple of years before closing in 2007. During most of this time I understand it was under the same management and with the same chef. I have wondered in the past why it regularly closed and re-opened, or changed its name, as nothing else seemed to change much. Could it be for tax or VAT reasons I asked myself? (but perhaps I'm being a little cynical).

However, in November 2008 it opened as Cinnamon under different ownership and chef, and unconnected with any other restaurant in town. The menu changed greatly, offering a number of innovative dishes. I thought it was good. However - surprise, surprise! - after less than a year it closed yet again, reopening under different ownership as Lee Spice.  However, after no more that a month or so (but after all the menus etc. had been printed) it changed to Ritz Spice, as they hadn't realised that there was the similarly named Le Spice in Gravesend (so much for the market research before opening a business!). Again they were not linked to any other restaurants in town (obviously, otherwise they wouldn't have cocked up the name!) Their menu was unfortunately not as innovative as the menu of its predecessor, reverting to a standard curryhouse list, and the meal that I tried was also fairly run-of-the-mill. I reported (in November 2009) that  "I suspect it won't last any longer than the others on the site, as it has not changed very much or introduced anything to raise it above the others in town."

And this proved to be correct, as it closed after a few months.

It re-opened in April 2010 under its present name. I learned that it was Indian run rather than Bangladeshi, and after a few months I began to hear good reports of the food, so what with this and the chequered history of the premises I went with interest.

The present restaurant is Indian owned and run, being a joint venture between Mr Jasbinder Singh (from Delhi), and Mr Sheetal Desai (from Bombay), who work as chef and front manager respectively. They are unconnected with any other restaurants in the vicinity, coming from London where Jasbinder was one of the chefs at The Cinnamon Club - a top notch Indian restaurant in Westminster (which has about 20 chefs working under the head chef, as it is no ordinary curry house). From the outside it still gives the appearance of a standard high street Indian restaurant, as it is relatively small (seating 40) without much scope for doing anything different by way of altering the seating arrangements. However, it has been tastefully redecorated without trying to do too much, leaving the inside clean, tidy and comfortable without going over the top, but once inside the first signs of a difference are noticed.

The smartly suited Mr Desai is on hand to greet diners, and menu is a long way from the uniformity of the standard curry house list. It has a slightly more limited menu than normal curry houses (although still plenty of choice), but most dishes offer a different name and perspective on Indian food, with dishes and flavours from different regions of India, including South Indian Dosa, Uttapam, Idli, Molee (a Keralan fish stew cooked in coconut), and a Goan fish curry cooked with coconut and vinegar. 

On the first visit three of us started with Delhi Aloo Tikki, (spicy potato patties with tamarind, mint and yoghurt), Sikampui Sammi Kebab (minced lamb cakes stuffed with onion and chilli) and the South Indian speciality of Masala Dosa (a pancake made of rice and lentil flour filled with a potato curry usually spiced with onion, chilli, turmeric and mustard seeds). When they were served it became clear that Jasbinder Singh had brought the techniques of The Cinnamon Club with him, presenting each dish as an artistic creation on the plate. The Aloo Tikki was superb, two very well spiced patties with a definite kick to the spicing and the sauces delicately arranged on top of each patty and drawn in thin swirls around the main items and edge of the plate. The garnish was thin spiral spring-like curls of salad vegetables, and it was almost a shame to break up such an artistic presentation. The Sammi Kebabs were also shaped as round patties, also pleasantly spiced, coated with egg and served with a similar decorative flair. The Masala Dosa comprised two good-sized Dosas, each filled with a soft potato curry and served with a vegetable samber that was more akin to a watery vegetable curry, and a little pot of delicious coconut chutney. All three dishes were shared amongst us for starters, and all were exceptionally good. Since that visit we have been several times, and added the excellent Bhel Puri (a delicious Indian street food snack, mainly found in Bombay, comprising a cold combination of rice, puffed rice, small-diced potato, coriander, onion, spices etc., and not found in many restaurants). 

On our several visits we have sampled Tandoori Chicken, Lal Mass (a traditional North West Indian lamb curry), Jinga Hara Pyaz (a stir-fried prawn curry with spring onion), Chicken Jalfrezi,  Kadai Chicken and Gosht Palak (Lamb with spinach) and all have been different and first class. Accompaniments have included Tarka Dall, Diwani Handi (vegetables with spinach and paneer), Aubergine Bhartha and Allo Gobi, all of which have been similarly excellent. The Tandoori Chicken comprised two good-sized pieces of chicken, scored on the outside to allow the marinade to seep in and well cooked, with delicious darker bits on the edges. It had a subtler flavour than most, and was one of the tastiest versions I've had for some time. The Lal Mass (small pieces of lamb in a rich gravy with grated garlic) was superb, particularly the lamb which was tender beyond my expectations for such a restaurant, and although not as hot as I often have, it has become one of my favourites. The Diwani Handi was delightful, the subtle spicing, spinach and paneer all combining to make a delicate and moreish side dish.  Without going into detail, suffice to say that each dish has been memorably delicious, and  overall the dishes all had a freshness and vibrancy of a skilled preparation in the kitchen, no doubt the result of Jasbinder honing his skills at The Cinnamon Club. I have to say that it was the most authentic Indian meal of any to be had in the area – the only one that might compare being the excellent Coco Diner in Chatham (also Indian owned and cheffed).

On other matters, the service was excellent, with Mr Desai being politely attentive but not overbearing; drinks were offered once we had settled rather than being pushed almost as soon as bum hits seat; the crockery good quality and plates were brought to the table hot. The portions were good, the prices about average for the area but very reasonable for what you got.

Overall this is by far the most authentic Indian food in town, and even though there are several other good Indian restaurants in town on which I have commented favourably, this is one that I am happy to add to my one or two favourites and use regularly.

The site may have seen a regular and rapid turnover of Indian restaurants over its history, but I sincerely hope that this one breaks the mould, as it would be a tragedy for anyone who likes Indian food if this were not to last. But judging by the food, it will.

Malcolm Wilkins - April 2011