RAJAH, 5 PORTLAND STREET

When I visited in 1997 this was the only 'Indian' restaurant in Ilfracombe. The restaurant was relatively small, seating about 30 in surroundings more like an English seaside restaurant than an Indian restaurant (although it may have been refurbished since). The middle-aged English waitress did nothing to dispel the image. Nevertheless, it was comfortable enough, if fairly ordinarily furnished,  and despite the lack of 'Indian-ness', it did advertise authentic Indian curries and the menu listed most of the usuals.

We made a good start, as my Onion Bhajias were the best I've had in many a year - large, but more importantly crisp, delicately spiced and with plenty of onion and a minimum of gram flour. My wife had Jeera Prawns, which were plentiful and good, but any subtlety of taste or spiciness was overwhelmed by the flavour of the copious amounts of cummin seed in which they had been fried.

Our main dishes were less successful. I wasn't reporting at the time, so did not note the main dishes we chose, but undoubtedly they would have been a couple of our usuals. I have to say that I was disappointed. There is something in the underlying flavours and spicing of Indian food that is difficult to re-create at home, the result being that most home-cooked curries (including mine) are tasty, but lack that certain something found in those obtained in bona fide Indian restaurants or cooked by those from the sub-continent. This was just like that, and tasted like a curry that one might get in an English restaurant or a health food shop. In other words, a nice enough curry, but disappointing if you are expecting the underlying flavours found in authentic Indian food and restaurants.

Now I can live with that. Indeed, I like different curries, and experimentation is one of the joys of cooking. What I found difficult to accept was that it was advertised as 'authentic Indian food.' Pleasant it might have been, but authentic I didn't think it was (and judging by the comments of a couple at the next table, neither did they!) Therefore, curious to know about the chef I asked the waitress the nationality of the chef (something, of course, I would never have done - indeed, never done before or since - had it tasted like 'authentic Indian food', as it advertised). She was very sharp and defensive in her response, but she did say that the chef was English and had never been to the Indian sub-continent, although "he has spent a time in East Africa," she declared tartly. She also informed me in no uncertain manner (as though I'd complained, which I hadn't - merely queried the credentials of the chef to claim it was 'authentic') that the restaurant was recommended in the Good Curry Guide, and was the only restaurant in North Devon listed.

The lack of authenticity of taste does not make for a poor meal, of course, and if served as a curry in a restaurant that advertises itself as serving 'East African style curries', 'Excellent Curries' or something similar, then one couldn't really complain, and I would have regarded it more favourably. But it didn't - it was advertised as serving 'authentic Indian curries', which from my experience it patently didn't. (Not only that, but it was also advertised as being 'North Devon's only entry in the Good Curry Guide', which was also untrue as there was an entry in the Guide for an Indian restaurant in Barnstaple, which by my reckoning is in North Devon).

A bit put out by having a meal that didn't match the 'authentic' tag it was advertised as or that I was hoping for, and exacerbated by the antagonistic attitude of the waitress, I wrote to the Curry Club, and thus my relationship with the Curry Club began.

On other points, the portions were plentiful, especially the starters - the Jeera Prawns particularly having a very generous amount of prawns. Prices were reasonable, service effective if not particularly welcoming or friendly (i.e. the meals were transported from kitchen to table promptly enough but without charm or smiles, even before I queried the chef).

Finally, and in fairness to the restaurant, my visit was some time ago and I have since had a report saying the staff were helpful and the food was good. Conversely, however, I have also received other reports, totally unsolicited, including one from an Indian gentleman, supporting the view of the lack of authenticity (although he did say the waiting staff were good, but I suspect it was a different waitress from my visit). Personally, I can only report it as I found it. I said at the time that I wouldn't go back, but on reflection I may do if ever in Ilfracombe again, just to see whether my first visit was a one-off experience (although the more recent comments by others indicate it may not have been). If I do return I don't know what I'll have, but one thing's for sure - I'll certainly start with Onion Bhajias.

Malcolm Wilkins

PS The owner's wife has complained on several occasions to point out that this report is too dated to be retained, and is misleading. I agree it is dated, but as the restaurant's ownership, chef, name, location etc. have not changed, and they still advertise 'authentic Indian curries', then I feel it is still relevant. I invited her to let me know of any changes since my visit (decor, menu etc.) so that I could update my report accordingly, but I have had no response so it is retained as it stands, as I did reflect my experience at the time.