RAJ VOGAN, 101 HASTINGS ROAD, PEMBURY, Nr TUNBRIDGE WELLS

Situated in the village of Pembury near Tunbridge Wells (virtually a suburb of the town), this small restaurant (seats about 45) is pleasantly appointed with a fresh, airy, light-coloured interior. Opened in about 2003, providing a good addition to the area. I first visited in 2004 and the menu looked quite extensive and appealing, but on reading it, the wording seemed very familiar. The descriptions of dishes were precisely the same as on the menu for the Gandhi and other restaurants owned by the same people in Gravesend. I enquired if there was a link, and with a look of surprise (I can imagine – how would someone link this small, suburban restaurant with one in a relatively distant town?) the waiter agreed that there was. Apparently there is a family link with the chef at the Gandhi. Well, the chef at the Gandhi in Gravesend produces some good stuff, so I hoped that this was a good omen.

I wasn’t disappointed, nor was I on this second visit. The food was all excellent on both occasions. Tandoori Chicken very tastily marinated, and with a good salad and tangy riata. My dish of Chicken Tikka Pathia was really superb – one of the best I’ve had (and not unlike the GandhiI – perhaps they share the same recipe). Well marinated chicken pieces in a thick, scrumptious, rich, strong-tasting sauce with a first-class blend of the sweetness and hotness. Jalfrezi also good, although not as hot as some (it is accurately described as a medium dish, although it did contain chillies). The vegetable dishes were also good – Vegetable Bhajee and Aloo Gobi delicately spiced and not overcooked, while Tarka Dall a good consistency (not like thick, lumpy custard as is produced in some places) and excellent garlic flavour.

Service good and friendly. Prices about average and portions, while not over-big, were certainly adequate (and the Tandoori Chicken portion was generous).

All in all, excellent meals on both visits, particularly the Pathia (on first visit), the taste of which will stay with me for a long time. Superb.

Malcolm Wilkins – June 2006