RAJ  VENUE, 92 ST. DUNSTAN'S STREET, CANTERBURY

Established in 1998 this restaurant is on two floors, although the upper story is relatively confined and claustrophobic. The main dining area downstairs is larger but rather crowded if full (as it was on a Saturday night) and of faded contemporary style (for example, the wooden floors were originally light coloured but have now darkened through years of wear), but comfortable nonetheless.

An excellent menu with not only all the usual offerings (under 'all time favourites') but also a plentiful selection of unusual dishes, many of which have coconut as an ingredient. For example, starters include Kakeda Malabar (crab meat in white wine and mango juice), Mussels Molly (a Keralan dish of mussels in a coconut and ginger sauce); the main dishes include Duck Xacuti (with roasted star anise, fenugreek, chillies, coconut and cinnamon), Chicken Chettinand (in a hot sauce of ginger, garlic, onion and coconut), Chicken Dhakashawari (marinated in herbs and cooked with mango and ground almonds - rather like a fruity Korma I imagine) and Malika-e-Shamundar (monkfish in a sauce made from coconut, curry leaves, mustard seeds, ground fennel and a little tamarind), while vegetarian dishes include Begun Massala (roast aubergine stuffed with chopped tomato and vegetables), Kofta Nazakat (vegetables and cottage cheese dumplings in a cashew nut and onion gravy) and Dum Ke Aloo (baby potatoes with mint and cheese in a cashew and onion gravy). These are just examples, as there are many more unusual and tempting dishes listed. 

The food was as good as the menu, with the more common dishes (tandoori chicken, onion bhaji, vegetable bhaji, tarka dall for example) well up to standard. My Chicken Chettinand was also very flavoursome, although possibly not as hot as the menu indicated. The accompanying ginger rice was a good combination, and I am surprised that this rice variation does not feature more frequently elsewhere as the ginger gave the rice an added something.

Prices round about the average, and portions were good as was the service. A restaurant that I would always be happy to return to, although their nearby sister restaurant - The Ancient Raj - might pip them for comfort, originality and ambience if the food is of the same standard.

Malcolm Wilkins - June 2009