This is the second oldest Indian restaurant in London after Veraswamy (there was another older but it closed) and it’s origins date back to 1947 when Gurbachan Singh Maan (now known as ‘Grandfather’) opened a restaurant in Aldgate. In 1951 he moved to the present premises to be close to the Indian High Commission where most of the staff were homesick for their Punjabi cuisine. It has never looked back, and has been in the hands of the same family - ‘grandfather’ Maan, his son, and now his grandson - ever since.

Situated in a Grade 2 listed building at the north end of the now trendy Neal Street it is divided into smoking and non smoking sections (customers entering are usually greeted and asked their preference, but in case not, then smoking is to the left and non-smoking to the right when entering). Many of the staff - particularly the older generation - look imposing in their turbans and project the image that this is a real Indian restaurant rather than a Bangladeshi clone. It seats about 60 in the non smoking section alone (the majority in a room at the back, but try and sit in the front part of possible, with the family pictures on the walls, as this is more atmospheric).

The menu has most of the dishes found in ordinary high street restaurants, but they are authentic and not the Bangladeshi formula variety - good though these are. There are also a number of less usual dishes, such as Anari Murga (chicken flavoured with pomegranate), Kadu Sabji (a pumpkin dish of Punjabi origins) and Benaam Macchi Tarkari (a nameless fish curry and speciality of the chef). A different version of Dall is ‘Grandad’s Kali Dall’ which is said to be from grandfathers original secret recipe. It is an interesting variation, being darker than a traditional Dall with the addition of urid lentils, but lighter than Maharani Dall which is made exclusively with black urid lentils.

The food is wonderfully authentic which in most cases will please those who have only been to Bangladeshi high street curry houses as the food from the Punjab is well spiced. There may be some dishes which the high street curry house fan may not find to their liking, such as tandoori chicken which does not have the bright orange or yellow colourings favoured by many curry houses, nor perhaps their standard tandoori flavour. But being more lightly (but delicately) spiced and cooked it is the genuine article. No Onion Bhajias listed either, but the Pakora is again the genuine article, and the small balls of onions in a chickpea batter are very well spiced with much more of a kick than the average onion bhajia, and served with a delicious sauce. Acharri Murga (pickled chicken) and absolute gem and one of my favourites, while ........but wait, I could go on and on! They are all good - and the real thing.

Prices marginally higher than a high street curry house but for London, and this type of restaurant, extremely reasonable. 10% service charge is added to the bill. Service is also good and efficient (I recall the first time I visited some time ago I suddenly felt unwell to the extent we asked them to cancel our order. They were concerned without making a fuss, gave me water and let us sit it out without hassle until I felt well enough to leave. I was impressed).

All in all a very good restaurant and unlike most, a genuine Indian restaurant provide much more authentic food than the average. It should be tried at least once (unless you are like a certain Mr Geoff Lawrence who, they say, ate there twice a day, five days a week for forty years until he retired. If true, that takes some beating!)

Malcolm Wilkins - January 2004