I only found three Indian restaurants in Northern Cyprus, all in the Kyrenia vicinity. I don’t think there is one in Famagusta (there used to be, but it closed) and surprisingly I couldn’t find one in North Nicosia, although there may well be one lurking unheralded somewhere there.

The first Indian restaurant in Northern Cyprus was Jashan, opened in 1995  by an English based Turkish Cypriot who, I was told, lived in a large pad in Barnet. However, he put in an Indian manager, staff and chefs and therefore was totally Indian staffed and run.  It is in an old manor house but curiously situated for a restaurant as it’s away from the coast in a small hillside village with no other attraction and one has to know of it’s existence, have a car and make a special journey to get there (although it’s worth the visit for the house and it’s view alone). It’s location is not particularly easy for holiday makers without a hired car (unless they took a taxi). When I visited it was excellent, although a little expensive by North Cyprus standards. The saddest thing about it was that it was running virtually empty and at a loss - certainly during the off season months. The manager told me glumly that unless things picked up quickly they would be forced to close. Indeed, there used to be two other Jashans - one in Kyrenia town and the other in Famagusta - but both have closed due to the economic situation in the country. Fortunately it didn't close but it did change ownership in April 2001 when it was taken over by a Mr Riaz Mohamad, a Pakistani who tells me that it still provides good curry but is not now so expensive as it was. I wish him well.  

However, whilst commenting on the depressing subject of Indian restaurants closing there used to be one about a mile or two West of Kyrenia called Planters (which is mentioned by the Rough Guide) but this is now an Italian restaurant so curryholics can save themselves the journey!

The second longest established Indian restaurant is the Pakistani owned Courtyard Inn. This again is excellent and, although not as plush or upmarket as Jashan, it is easier to find and cheaper. Once again, however, the owner was bemoaning the local economy and saying how difficult it was becoming to maintain business.

The third Indian Restaurant is the recently opened Pegasos, opening at the beginning of March this year despite the economic gloom. This is on the main coast road about a mile to the West of Kyrenia and is a far more basic restaurant and bar. Like the Courtyard Inn, it is a watering hole for British ex pats. The menu has a reasonable variety of curries, although is less attractive than the other two. This was the first of the three we ate in and the owner very generously photocopied his menu when I asked if he had a copy. I enclose this for your records. Friendly service but, although the food was quite tasty, the portions were distinctly on the small side and none were as good as the food provided by other two restaurants. What’s more, it was again expensive by local standards and in fact prices were on a par with Jashan, with which there is absolutely no comparison. I have not, therefore, provided a separate report but I admire the owner’s (Mr Tahir Khan) entrepreneurial guts in giving it a go.

Malcolm Wilkins - March 2001

North Cyprus’s first Indian restaurant and undoubtedly the plushest. It is situated off the beaten track, being in the village of Edremit about a mile from the coast road west of Kyrenia. It’s location does not lend itself to passing trade, although it is signposted from the main road. The restaurant itself was established in 1995 in a wonderful old manor house with lovely views towards the sea. A small open courtyard with fountain leads to the entrance hall which has stone flagged floors and wooden beamed roof, and now houses a small bar (wood panelled in keeping with the decor) and reception area with walls covered by photographs of celebrities and dignitaries (mainly Turkish) who have visited. It was originally Turkish Cypriot owned but Indian run (being managed by the very friendly Manjeet Pancholi with Indian waiters and chefs from North India who I met when there in March 2001) However, in April 2001 it was taken over by Mr Riaz Mohamad who is from Pakistan. Mr Riaz tells me that since he has taken over the food is still good but it is not now so expensive as it was. I haven't visited since the change of ownership so can only report on what it was like when I visited, but I'm sure Mr Mohamad will maintain the excellent atmosphere and provide excellent curry. If you want to contact him he tells me his web address is www.jashanrestaurant.com.

The restaurant itself seats about 50 plus in two rooms, one with a magnificent original chandelier and side table adorned by various Mogul Indian headdresses which the manager will allow - indeed almost insist on - you to wear if taking a photograph. The other room has a large fireplace which has a nice cosy fire in cooler months. There is also a balcony affording marvellous views for lunchtime and summer evening diners. We studied the menu - a large colourful affair containing coloured photographs of the good range of dishes covered - with complimentary popadoms and pickles in the reception area.

Starter of Chicken Chat starter contained plenty of good quality chicken cooked in a piquant sauce and served cool while the onion bhajis (6 bhajias) were delicious being very crispy and well spiced. Indeed, they were the best onion bhajias I have had for a very long time, and when my wife made this complimentary remark we were presented with a further 6 bhajias ‘compliments of the chef’! My main dish of Chicken Jalfrezi again contained plenty of succulent good quality chicken and, although no obvious whole chillies in the sauce, it was nicely hot to leave a tingle on the tongue. (I was asked about strength when I ordered and asked for it hot, so if you want it hot it’s best to say so). My wife had Murgh Jashan - the house special - which came in a milder creamy sauce which was very tasty but not a million miles away from CTM (which was also on the menu and it would have been interesting to compare the two). Mixed vegetable curry excellent with a good range of vegetables well cooked and spiced, while the delicately flavoured saffron rice was also first rate. Peshwari Nan less thick and airy than usual (more on the lines of a paratha) but more authentically contained crushed almonds rather than the sometimes over sweet almond paste which is commonly used at in UK high street restaurants.

To finish we had Kulfi - one pistachio and one other flavoured - to which they had added a small sweetish dumpling-like sweet to try. It was stressed that all their Indian sweets are home made - and very nice they were too! Coffee and a complimentary brandy completed a very enjoyable and good quality meal.

The service was first class and portions generous, each being served in a pot on its own heater. Prices are quite high by North Cyprus standards, although less than in England, particularly for the type and style of restaurant it is where prices in UK would be substantially higher (although comparison with English prices depends on the exchange rate). All in all an excellent meal in comfortable and different surroundings and can be highly recommended.

The Courtyard Inn is an old colonial manor house situated in it’s own grounds on the main road about 2 miles east of Kyrenia. It is an Inn, offering bed and breakfast, as well as a restaurant. It opens at 9am for breakfast (English, although will serve Indian food for breakfast if required!) Being Pakistani owned (from about five years ago) it offers an ‘Indian’ menu, including Balti, as well as a standard European menu. Although the ground floor has been converted into two dining rooms (seating about 50) plus a bar it hasn’t been modernised or smartened up to any great extent, which gives it a well worn homely atmosphere. The stone flagged floored bar is clearly the local watering hole of some of the British ex pat community there. The main dining room (I didn’t see in the other) has a large fire place in the corner which adds to the cosy atmosphere when lit in the evenings of the cooler months.

The Indian menu has most of the regulars dishes, and all main dishes come with rice, nan and pickles. Having had a fill of the various kebabs and grilled meat that North Cyprus cuisine offers we went for a non meat meal. All dishes were excellent - shrimp bhajia starters were large and crispy, Alo (sic) Sag tasty (although spinach sauce a puree - probably frozen), fried dal rich, dark and authentic and the mixed vegetable balti well spiced and first class. The accompanying rice was fragrant, delicately spiced and plentiful.

Service good and friendly, in a laid back sort of way, and portions ample. At first sight it appears (like the other two Indian restaurants in the vicinity) above average prices for North Cyprus, but all dishes come with rice, nan and pickles so it works out quite reasonably priced, and the cheapest of the three.

A good meal in a pleasant, cosy and congenial atmosphere and well worth visiting.

Malcolm Wilkins -  March 2001