Nabab, 84 Upper St James Street

A very pleasant looking restaurant seating about 50 diners in comfortable and contemporary surroundings of red and blue decor with strips of mirrors on the walls, wooden floor and tables in dark wood without table clothes (always a good idea with me, as I have an unfortunate habit of dribbling curry sauce all over it!). The first thing to praise is the booking system which actually is taken seriously, unlike so many High Street Indian restaurants. When I went to book I was advised that it was fully booked with a table unlikely to become available at my preferred time and I was offered a later time which was fine. When I arrived I was greeted by name and led to our table which was ready and laid out. I was impressed.

The menu has many different dishes available in addition to the standards. For example, the starters include Tandoori Quail and Bonhoor (a barbecued venison dish), while the Chef’s Specials list unusual names such as Sughanda Chicken (flavoured with Tia Maria), Advocat Lamb (with cooked with fresh mint and Advocat), Ayre Mass Massala (the Bengladeshi fish marinated overnight in onion flavoured sauce), Batak Karai (Duck cooked in Karai with ginger) and many more.

For starters we had Onion Bhajias (3 round style) which were OK although slightly greasy and a bit soft inside, but my Butty Kebab (spiced lamb barbecued in the tandoor) was delicious. Deeply marinated in spices it was well tandooried and full of flavour. Not fancying a main dish of curry cooked with Advocat or Tia Maria (different, I’m sure, but it sounds dreadful) I went for Nizami Chicken (Chicken Tikka cooked with fresh ginger, garlic and mustard) while my wife had Mint Chicken. Both were excellent. The Nizami was well flavoured chicken in a thick tasty sauce and left a tingle on the tongue while not being too hot, while the Mint Chicken was equally tasty although milder. The accompanying Vegetable Bhajee was a good mix of diced vegetables well spiced with a peppery flavour. The only slight disappointment was the Peshwari Nan which, although having a desiccated coconut filling with the odd sultana, was a bit ‘tired’ and seemed to lack freshness of preparation or flavour, almost like something bought from a supermarket and heated up. However, that small thing did little to detract from an otherwise good meal.

The service was good, especially the booking and reception on arrival as already mentioned, and the waiters - particularly the head man - very friendly. Prices about average and portions ample.

Malcolm Wilkins - May 2002