The original Indian restaurant at this site used to be called Mahatma Cote - an amusing name, but they were less amusing in their marketing ploys which I felt were deceptive when I visited in 1997 and 1998. (So much so that my report to the Curry Club in January 1998 used terms such as ‘a real con’, ‘false representation’ and ‘deceiving the unwary’ in describing some of their marketing strategies). The food was good mind you, but it was various other things done, in my view, to mislead. Not worth going into here as the place is no more. In the summer of 1999 they closed following a conviction for a scam relating to selling drinks which were not all they should have been (according to the local paper). Although I could not comment on this it seems my views were prophetic and the owner's claims of innocence following the conviction rang a little hollow in my ears! Having given the background of the demise of the Mahatma Cote, a new restaurant called Spice of India opened in August 1999 which had no connection with its predecessor and was run by a family who run one in Romford. I visited in September 1999 and wrote the following report:-

‘This new restaurant opened at the beginning of August 1999. The layout is much the same as before - comfortable, brightly lit and mirrored interior with several plants round the room which is painted a pillar box red with pink tablecloths. The new menu is fairly standard and slightly less interesting than previously, but it’s considerably cheaper!

The food was good overall. All starters well up to standard. Tangy Chicken Chat, and the Prawn Puri delicately spiced and of good standard. Onion Bhaji (2 flat ones) were crisply fried with plenty of onion and well spiced while the Kebab Cocktail was an interesting selection of tikkas and pieces of kebab, and good value at £2.40.

Of the main dishes my Chicken Jalfrezi was excellent with plenty of charcoal grilled chicken in a spicy sauce, in which the taste of cooked chillies was very evident. The cooked chillies were attractively arranged around the outside. The Lamb Dhansak was excellent with tender pieces of lamb in a fairly thick, spicy sauce, reasonably hot and with a hint of sweetness. Lamb Karai (sic) was also very good with tender chunks of lamb in a spicy, medium hot sauce with a very fresh taste to it and served in a Karahi. The Chicken Tikka Masala looked as though it had been overdosed in bright red food colouring, but was quite tasty nonetheless and declared well up to standard by the recipient. Chicken Pasanda was also enjoyed by the recipient although much too creamy and bland for my liking. My wife’s Murgh Makani contained flavoursome pre-grilled chicken, but the sauce was very thick and tasted strongly of creamed coconut which we all found a bit too sweet and sickly. A topping of different coloured almonds on both this dish and the Pasanda gave an attractive, decorative touch.

Vegetable dishes all of a good standard, particularly the dry ones (Vegetable Bhaji and Sag Aloo), as were the accompanying Nan, Chapattis and Rice. The Peshwari Nan was particularly good as, although smaller then average and lacking the sultanas mentioned in the menu, it had an excellent flavour and a slightly crisp, almost puff pastry exterior.

Although the restaurant was relatively empty there was a lengthy wait between ordering and the food arriving. However, there were seven of us and, as the food tasted freshly prepared, such a wait was acceptable. Once it arrived the service was efficient. The portions were quite sufficient and the prices very reasonable - certainly much cheaper than under the previous ownership.’

However, things move on and the Spice of India was short lived. It changed hands again in April 2000 and was renamed to it’s current, more mundane title (interesting that the name has moved through from being what could be described ‘unusual and amusing’, to ‘standard’ and now to ‘unimaginative’ !) I am told that the current owners have no connection with the previous ones, nor any other restaurant in the area. The interior appears the same and the menu remains standard high street Indian. I have yet to try it, but at some point I will.

Malcolm Wilkins - May 2003