Lal QUILLA, 135-136 HIGH STREET.

As the only Indian restaurant in Lymington it gets crowded, particularly in the spring and summer season on a Saturday. It seats about 80 in fairly standard but comfortable surroundings and offers a wide choice of all the usual dishes plus the odd unusual addition.

Starter of Chicken Chat comprised large chunks of chicken (rather than the more traditional small pieces or strips). However, it was in a tangy sauce and OK. Although not listed on the menu they will produce Onion Bhajias and these were excellent - two large crisp and spicy round bhajias and the best we’ve had for a while.

For the main dish my wife tried the Murgh Nhagpuri, it being one of the few different dishes on the menu. This was strips of tandoori chicken in a rich, thick dark sauce with caramelised onions and peppers. Again, extremely flavoursome but at almost £10 a little pricey for a standard high street curry house. My Chicken Pathia was in a thin, light coloured sauce rather than the more usual thick dark sauce, but fairly tasty nonetheless. Mixed Vegetable Bhaji reasonable - the vegetables were only lightly cooked and fresh tasting - but the vegetable selection was very limited, comprising mostly carrots. An accompanying Rice and Kulcha Nan standard offerings.

All in all and enjoyable meal although the dishes - particularly the Mixed Vegetable and Pathia, had a lot of surface oil. Portions quite sufficient, but the prices were higher than average for a fairly typical high street curry house. I suppose it reflects their monopoly in a town frequented by well-heeled yachting types.

Service only fair. Food and drinks served OK but we had to ask for napkins after we had started, our cutlery was almost thrown on the table in a heap for us to sort out, and the raita which should have accompanied the onion bhajias arrived when we had virtually finished them. However, I was impressed by the booking service - so often a major moan of mine when it seems to count for little. Unusually for a high street restaurant they refused to take a booking for times they knew they were full (usually a restaurant will take booking regardless and sit you in reception until a table becomes vacant!). We therefore had to accept quite a late booking, but at least our table was vacant when we arrived and after all, a late curry is better than no curry!

Malcolm Wilkins - April 2000