Opened about 25 years ago as part of the surrounding Asian community and serves good, Pakistani style gutsy curry. Not only did it have a predominantly Asian clientele, it did not make any concessions to Western tastes or standards - no menus, no cutlery evident (although they would produce it if asked) and the decor was distinctly scruffy. The food, however, was wonderful.

Things have changed at bit recently, although fortunately not the food. The place started to attract more Westerners in the mid 90s and when I went in 1998 the place had been redecorated with pictures hanging on the walls, cutlery (a single fork, but a major concession to Western habits!) on the table and even paper serviettes and a small plasticised menu on the tables (although I’m pleased to see the canteen style menu board behind the counter remains). It is also becoming more popular at lunch time with smartly attired city slickers so the atmosphere is gradually changing away from purely Asian.

Despite tarting the place up a bit the tables are still pleasingly uncovered, and a salad and mint raita is usually plonked on the table as soon as you get seated. Rotis come in a heaped plate, as does the fragrant pillau rice. Portions of everything are ample and simply delicious.

Prices extremely cheap and they still don’t seem to give bills despite the slight modernisation (I’m surprised the VAT people haven’t become curious!). Payment is cash only so don’t expect to pay by credit card.

Close enough to Brick Lane to get plenty of choice in the area, but still my East End favourite despite the yuppie invasion.

Malcolm Wilkins - February 2002