An attractive restaurant situated in a 15th century beamed building., although part was renovated in the nineties, the original being destroyed by fire (that part used to be the smoking section . Any connection I wonder!) It seats about 25 in the original part of the building, and about the same number in the renovated section on the other side of the entrance and waiting area. 

I did wonder about the reliability of the table reservation system (a regular moan of mine) as on a previous occasion I had reserved a table in the non-smoking area, which I had telephoned to confirm on the day, yet on arrival at the appointed time we were casually told that the no-smoking area was full and we had to sit in the smoking area unless we were prepared to wait. The fact we had booked seemed to have not the slightest effect on them - not even an apology! Somewhat disgruntled we decided to go in smoking area rataher than leave, but we were not best pleased. Therefore on this occasion I again rang twice to confirm the reservation. I need not have worried, as on arrival there was a table ready laid out for three people. The difference was that, unlike previously, all but one of the other tables were empty as well, so whether it would have worked had it been crowded we shall never know.

The restaurant does not immediately project a feeling of an Indian restaurant, as apart from the owner, the waitresses (both female) were  white/English, which together with the building and decor, gives an impression of a Tudor coffee shop. However, the restaurant is Indian owned and has been with the same (lady) owner for the past fifteen years, although the current chef is Bangladeshi (I gather there have been several chefs over that period).

The menu has most of the usual dishes plus one or two different names under ‘Chef’s Specials’, and seemed to have changed little since my last visit. My previous report gave mixed views - I'd reported that the "Tandoori Mix (not on the current menu), was substantial and very tasty, Lamb Jhaalfrazi (sic) good - hot with the right amount of chillies" but on the other hand I said that "the Chicken Patiya (sic) lacking in the necessary underlying sweet/sour, while my wife reported her Chicken Tikka Masala not as good as she usually enjoys in other restaurants, it being creamy but without much other flavour. I defer to her view as I never order this dish, but my brief sampling would bear out her opinion. Vegetable dishes no more than average, and Malai Kofta (vegetable dumplings) comprised tasty dumplings, but although the sauce was pleasant enough we all agreed that it probably had a base of commercial tinned cream of tomato soup!"  That was on the last visit, so this time we decided to go for different dishes.

I’m afraid things did not get off to a good start. Before our backsides had barely touched the seat, one of the girls was beside us to ask what we wanted to drink, followed immediately by how many popadoms we wanted. Good service is fine, but this was overbearingly sharp and pressurised - we hadn't even settled in our seats or seen a drinks list (perhaps there isn't one – but drinks aren’t listed on the menu). My friend and I ordered a pint of bitter each, but when these were served they were both well and truly off - virtually two pints of vinegar - so we opted for water. We then had a considerable wait for the popadoms to arrive (and they weren't exactly under any pressure from customers), but almost as soon as we started to nibble the first popadom a waitress arrived with the starters, saying, "is it all right to bring the starters?" No it wasn't all right, so back they went until we were ready. When they did come, nobody had cleared our table or plates from the popadoms & pickles, and these were taken away afterwards. Furthermore. the plates for the starters were all stone cold, so overall we were not impressed with the start. 

As for the starters themselves, the Sheekh Kebab was pleasantly seasoned and OK, although rather pale and would have benefited from being cooked and browned a bit more (it was cooked through OK, but the paleness did make us wonder before trying it). The Chicken Chat was nicely sharp and tasty, but presentationally a little garnish would have helped. The Onion Bhajias (three round type) were disappointingly lukewarm and had to be sent back (no doubt because they had been waiting on the side since we indicated we weren’t ready). Again, the garnish for the bhajias lacked much presentational imagination, consisting simply some strips of onion. A bit of lettuce and tomato for colour would again have made it look much more appetising. However, when some new bhajias were served they were nicely light and tasty with a good onion to gram flour ratio.

Of the main dishes, the Chicken Tikka Jhaalfrazi (sic) was well spiced, with sufficient chillies cooked in to give it that proper chilli-hot bite, and was a reasonable formula curry average. However, the Chicken Balti was in no way a balti dish - it was simply a basic chicken curry placed in an ordinary dish - not even a karahi to give the pretence of being a balti! It was pleasant enough, but as in many Bangladeshi-run high street restaurants, had not been freshly cooked in an iron karahi and served in that dish, and the base sauce owed more to the same (commercial?) base sauce as my Jhaalfrazi (and the vegetable dishes) than a freshly cooked balti. Unlike the balti, the Tandoori Chicken was served sizzling on a dish. However, instead of the lettuce garnish being fresh on the plate, the lettuce was similarly sizzling under the chicken! The chicken itself was well grilled - even blackened - on the outside, and quite flavoursome, but the inside was pure white so what tandoori marinade there may have been had certainly not had time to permeate into the chicken. The two vegetable dishes - Mixed Vegetable Curry and an Aloo Gobi - were about average, but once again the base sauce of each was remarkably similar. The rice was fine and plentiful, while the breads (Nan and Chapatti) were standard stuff. (I also noted that the plates for the main course were warm, but due only, I suspect, because one of the waitresses had heard us commenting on the coldness of the earlier plates!)

I have to say that, bearing in mind all the points above, coupled with the cavalier attitude on a previous visit in not honouring our reservation and expecting us to be ushered without complaint to the smoking section, the service is mediocre at best. However, the lady owner was friendly and took time to speak to us.

Prices about average, as were the portions of the main dishes.

All in all an attractive-looking restaurant from the outside, but failing in many areas and producing only a very average high street formula curry once inside. A bit of thought in presentation and a more professional service (and a check on the quality of the beer!) would be an improvement for a start.

Which brings me to my last point. When we arrived I could detect a distinctly difference in atmosphere to previous visits.  On previous occasions the place has been crowded, but on this occasion it was virtually empty (and I can’t say I noticed any people coming in for a take-away either, but perhaps I was unobservant). I thought at first that it must have changed ownership, but was told it hadn’t. All the owner's protestations that it was summer and they close at eleven rang a bit hollow for the reason for the downturn in Saturday business. My previous visits have all been in the summer, when it had been full, and only a couple of weeks ago I visited an Indian restaurant in a similarly sized village in Kent at the same time of evening and which was packed to the doors. Something must be wrong if they can't fill more than two tables on a Saturday night – potentially the busiest of the week - particularly as it is the only Indian restaurant in the town. However, the owner did tell me that she would like to bring in an Indian chef - as against Bangladeshi - to produce proper Indian food. I do hope she does so, as good authentic Indian cooking must take it above the average high street Bengladeshi produced formula curries and improve business (not forgetting, of course, that a bit more professionalism in the service would also help).  I look forward to enjoying some authentic Indian cooking next time I visit, although from this experience this may be a while yet.

Malcolm Wilkins - July 2005