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KINGFISHER, 32 WINDMILL STREET. A large restaurant seating about 60 in a long, spacious room. Fairly long established it opened as the Akash and remained as such for many years doing a steady if fairly modest trade before it closed early in 1999. It re-opened shortly after under the name of Light of Bengal, when again it appeared to do a steady but unspectacular trade. In the summer of 2005 it changed to its present name, although I was told that the management and chef remain the same. I am a little surprised if it is the same chef as I had eaten there on two or three occasions in the past and each time it was OK, but nothing to mark it above the average. In fact, last time I reported the the Chicken Jalfrezi had no chillies evident. However, on several occasions since (including now a number of take-aways) I have been very pleasantly surprised to find that the meal was very good. Although the ambience is still not particularly cosy due to the cavernous nature of the place, which is accentuated as it never seems to be that crowded, the chicken Jalfrezi not only had chillies, but the chicken was tasty chicken tikka, so a great improvement. The Tandoori Chicken was excellent (one of the best I've had for a long time - two large pieces, not only well marinated but with more than the average spiciness), as were the vegetable dishes of Sag Aloo and Vegetable Sumber (sic). If it's the same chef then he must have been practising! Portions good, prices average and service pleasant and efficient (although timings for delivery on take-aways can be a bit ambitious!). I have now used it several times, and will be happy to continue to use this one in view of the improvement. Malcolm Wilkins - February 2007 |