JAL KHABAR, 9-10 MARYPORT STREET, DEVIZES

At the time of our visit this was the newest of Devizes' four Indian restaurants, opening in 2006. It is under the same ownership as the Bengal Bite a hundred yards or so away. It seats about 80 in a modern and airy restaurant, with light coloured tile floors, plain light-coloured wall and plenty of space between the tables. Very airy and roomy, but could almost be described as austere.

From a fairly standard high street curryhouse menu we started with the benchmark Onion Bhajee and Vegetable Pakoras. The bhajias (3 round type) were fairly average - reasonably (but not highly) spiced, crisp on the outside but, as is so often the case, a little stodgy inside. As for the Vegetable Pakoras, they were not quite what I was expecting. I imagined from the description of fresh vegetables battered and deep fried they would be just that - pieces of vegetables fried in a spiced batter. However, they were four small balls, deep fried to be crisp on the outside, but containing a soft, almost paste-like mixture of minced vegetables. What vegetables they were was indeterminable, and whether fresh or not would be quite impossible to tell. What's more, the inside paste was cold. Now perhaps it was meant to be cold, as it might be difficult to heat it right through without over-frying the outside, so tempted though I was to ask I didn't (so we'll never know). They were quite spicy, however and I ate them all without any qualms (and without any ill-effects in the morning!).

The main dish of Tandoori Chicken was OK. Two pieces of chicken were both large and meaty, but a little dry, and the tandoori marinade was blander and lacking in any depth of 'tandoori' flavour that is more common with this dish. I suspect the restaurant doesn't have a tandoor. Chicken Chilli Masala was also no more than OK. The pieces of chicken were again disappointing (there was enough of it, but it was dry and fairly tasteless without the sauce, even though it was tikka), but the sauce was had sufficient chillies to give it some zip. Mixed Vegetable Bhajee a disappointment, as it was a mix of small diced vegetables without much spicing and overcooked to be slightly soft and damp, if not quite mushy. The Tarka Dall was much better - the right consistency and a good garlic flavour to it.

Standard prices and portions, but unfortunately we left quite a lot (but no Dall) - not because there was too much but that it was all rather bland and became a bit boring eating it. There was nothing of the 'moreishness' about it that tempts you to that extra couple of mouthfuls when you are already full. I couldn't even be bothered to ask for the remains to be potted to take away - a sure sign that it had no special appeal.

The service was good (although there were only three other tables taken) and very friendly. In fact, when I called in at lunchtime the manager and waiter were extremely helpful to me in telling me where the other three restaurants were located, thus saving me considerable and fruitless searching. For that I am very grateful to them, and wish I could give a better report, but I am afraid that we both found the food to be no more than very average.

Malcolm Wilkins - July 2007