HILL TOWN, 102 UNION STREET

This restaurant opened in February 2003, taking over from Monsoon, which was previously there. I was told it was owned by the same people who run Monsoon in Brick Lane, London (despite the same name there is no connection with previous incumbent in Maidstone). A curious name for an Indian restaurant and the manager explained - as far as I could tell - that he decided on the name as he went up and down hills searching for a suitable location to open a new restaurant.

It appears relatively small from the outside, with just a small bar and reception area visible, but the dining area behind seats about 45 in long, narrow premises divided into several comfortably furnished parts, which provides for attractively secluded dining.

The menu contains a comprehensive list of all the favourites and a few interesting additions among their specials. We started with the old favourites of Chicken Chat and Onion Bhajias. The chat was several pieces of chicken tikka in sauce which, although not having the tanginess often found in chat, was nevertheless very tasty. Not a large portion, but perfectly adequate for an appetiser. The Onion Bhajias (four round type) were nicely crisped on the outside if a little bland inside, and came with a fresh, crisp salad garnish and mint riata.

For one main dish we chose the Green Chutney Chicken, described as being ‘cooked in a green masalla sauce flavoured with tamarind, coriander, green chillies and mint for a tangy taste’. In the event it was pleasant enough, but cooked with spinach and no flavour of mint or tang of tamarind, and fairly mild which conflicted the description of being cooked with green chillies. I am fairly certain it was Chicken Sagwalla (‘cooked with medium spices and spinach’), but it was quite agreeable, and as my friend liked it better than me (and we were sharing) we said nothing. The other main dish was the old favourite of Chicken Dhansak, which countered the mildness of the other dish. It contained large chunks of chicken in a very tasty and pleasing hot sauce. The accompanying Tarka Dall and Niramish were both well up to standard. We ordered two different rice dishes - Vegetable Rice and Kashmiri Rice. Personally I preferred the vegetable rice which was fried with a variety of diced vegetables, while the Kashmiri rice was drier with some sultanas, ground nuts and coconut

The service was efficient and friendly, the portions adequate and the prices about average. All in all it was a pleasant meal - to be honest better than I expected, as for a Saturday night the place was discouragingly empty (only one other table occupied when we arrived at nine o’clock). Perhaps they haven’t yet built up a regular trade as they have only been there a couple of months, but they will need regular customers as they will not get much by way of passing trade as the situation is a little tucked away. The other potential difficulty is that there is plenty of good competition in Maidstone. Indeed, it’s predecessor (Monsoon) only lasted a year, and the one before that (Jafflong) was also short lived. I hope this one stays the course and I wish them well (NB It was still there in July 2007 when I drove past).

Malcolm Wilkins - April 2003