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GULSHAN, FORE STREET, PROBUS, Nr TRURO The restaurant is run by Alom Ali (from Chittagong in Bangladesh) and his English wife Sue. Before opening this restaurant in September 2000 they ran the Raj in nearby Grampound for three years (after moving down from Cheshire). I had visited the Raj in May 2000 when Alom told me he was hoping to expand into larger premises, but the collapse of one of the walls of their Grampound establishment undoubtedly hastened the move! The present restaurant is pleasant and airy, and is situated a little off the beaten track in the village center. It seats about 50 in comfortable surroundings, with plain white walls adorned with Indian pictures and plenty of potted greenery to divide the dining area into two parts. A fresh carnation on each table and expensive-looking curtains draped attractively across the windows provide an air of quality. It should be noted that the restaurant closes on a Monday. A good menu featuring all the usuals plus a few less common names. I have visited on a number of occasions in the past, and as usual my wife started with Onion Bhaji, which is not only one of her favourites but also acts as a good benchmark. As on previous occasions there were three large flat bhajias, which were well cooked with a nicely crisp outside and tastily spiced, served with a good salad garnish. I've had Chicken Tuk Tuk (chicken tikka in batter and deep fried) on my previous visits, which I've always found to be excellent (unlike some I've had - mainly in Cornwall, where it seems to be popular although rarely features on menus in the South East - as the coating was dry and not greasy). However, despite this commendation I went for Chicken Chat on my latest visit and found it pleasantly spiced and a substantial portion which was wrapped in a puri, making it even more substantial. Personally I found the puri unnecessary and too filling (although it is a common practice with this dish) as there was ample chicken to provide a more than adequate appetiser on its own. On previous occasions we have eaten our way through Garlic Chilli Chicken, Chicken Arief (barbecued chicken cooked with fresh ginger in a medium sauce), Tandoori Chicken for our main dishes. All have been excellent and flavoursome. My previous report described the dishes as:- "The Chilli Chicken was, as expected, fairly hot with a number of green chillis to give it some zing. The chicken in the Arief had a superb ginger flavour which had been imparted by the sauce, although the sauce itself contained such an abundance of fresh ginger that you have to be very fond of fresh ginger to finish the sauce. The Tandoori Chicken was well marinated, quite hotly spiced and there was something slightly different in the marinade from that usually found in the Tandoori Chicken in most Indian restaurants. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable and tasty". I also had Lamb Pathia on my last visit, which I had found slightly disappointing as, although the quality of the meat was fine, I described it as " very 'tomatoey' and bland in a thinner than normal sauce, rather like a lamb and tomato stew with a few spices added". I therefore decided to have Lamb Pathia again to compare. I am pleased to say that it was better, in that the sauce was thicker and, although still strongly tomato based, there was an assertive sweet/sour flavour. However, it was not very hot (spicily hot) - certainly less than the general run of Pathias - and personally I would have preferred a bit more oomph to give it a kick. However, it was enjoyable and would particularly suit those who usually find Pathia too hot. Once again the chunks of Lamb were plentiful and tender. We also tried Chicken Dupiaza, which was a pleasant mild to medium dish of good quality and fairly standard onion based sauce and flavouring. As before we accompanied the main dishes with a Vegetable Bhaji which contained a good range of vegetables. I commented last time that while OK, it lacked the fullness and flavour of the spicing I recall from my earlier visits. Nevertheless, it was pleasant enough and a good average. Accompanying Pillau Rice was fine and the Peshwari Nan was first class, being fresh, light and with a good content (as it was on the last occasion). Prices are not cheap - indeed, a 'random basket' sample check shows it to be priced slightly above those in Truro, which in themselves are above the average - but the portions are extremely generous. Indeed, I recall from all previous visits that we have been unable to finish, sometimes leaving enough to take out for another meal, which they are happy to do. The service was, as always, efficient and friendly. All in all it is an extremely pleasant little restaurant, which clearly has a strong local following and repeat/recommendation business, as it must because there would be little by way of casual passing trade. It also does a good take-away trade. An interesting aside is that Alom and Sue started a frozen curry side to the business a couple of years ago, delivering orders to pubs, campsites or other outlets according to demand. They tell me it has got off to a good start and Alom has plans to move production to a factory, although is so, then this is likely to take most of his time. I hope this does detract from the restaurant side, where I always enjoy a visit, but whatever they decide I wish them well. After all, a number of entrepreneurs have established very large food industries from such humble beginnings. Malcolm Wilkins - September 2004
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