GREEN SPICE, GREEN STREET GREEN ROAD, DARENTH

This restaurant opened in October 2002 in a former pub – formerly the ‘Darenth Tavern’- moving from much smaller adjacent premises where it had traded under the name of Green Tandoori since 1996. I believe the Polash take-away in Dartford is under the same ownership.

Being a former pub, the premises are large and it offers ample car parking space both in front and behind. It seats about 150 in comfortable surroundings, having a well stocked bar (both Cobra and Kingfisher served as well as Carlsburg), modern wooden flooring and colourful ceiling lights, all of which provide a pleasant ambience. 

I had visited it in its Green Tandoori days (September 2000) when I had been distinctly unimpressed with the food, describing the dishes as generally ‘mild and insipid, and small portions’. I paid a visit to the newly created restaurant in 2003 when I was pleased to find that not only had the premises improved, but things had also generally improved on the food front. This present visit showed that little had changed since then - so much so that I can retain much of my previous report.

The menu lists all the standards plus a number of less common names. Curiously, however, there are only explanations of the 'chef’s specials' and the menu invites customers to ask a member of staff what other dishes are (and as we shall see, asking a member of staff may not be very helpful). Even old curry hands like me would have to ask for a description of starters such as Chicken Sorati, and what the main dish styles such as Khanza, Ahadi, Asanok, Amrenga or Lazeem have that differentiates them from the many others. Those less familiar with Indian dishes would have even more difficulty, and some explanation beside the dish names would be helpful rather than have to ask waiters who don't really know (being fobbed off with phrases such as 'special spices' and so on is not good enough!).

On our first visit we had starters of Onion Bhajias and Chot Poti (spicy chick peas and potato and, less usually, paneer), which were both good. The Bhajias comprised four, large round specimens, which were nicely crisp on the outside and, although a bit heavy, were pleasantly spiced. Served with a salad garnish they made a very substantial portion - too much really for an appetiser and two would have been quite sufficient. Chot Poti was also a sizeable helping and was very tasty. Both were served with a small dab of tamarind sauce on the plate. On this occasion we also had Onion Bhajias, which were just the same, and again I consider it was an unnecessarily big and filling portion for an appetiser even though they were tasty. We also had an Aloo Chat, which was flavoursome if a little oily, and I tried a Begun Biraan. This was a mistake as this was awful. Three large rings of aubergine had been coated in batter and deep fried. Again it presented a large starter, but as soon as the knife cut into the fried batter exterior the oil oozed out copiously. One taste was enough - there was no discernible spicing and it was simply dripping oil. As any chef knows, aubergine soaks up oil like a sponge, and deep fried in oily batter it probably had enough oil to run a car! Not exactly a healthy option! My three companions all agreed that it was something to be avoided and virtually all was left. When the waiter queried that it was virtually untouched I lightly pressed one of the rings with a fork as a demonstration and the oil puddled the surface and ran down the side. "Oily, eh!" he commented, stating the obvious, but made no further comment (nor, I noted, was it deducted from the bill. Not that I should expect it as I did order it, but it would have been a nice gesture and one which many restaurants would have conceded).

Two of our main dishes were Asar Gosht and Chicken Pathia, which we had chosen last time. On the first occasion I had wondered whether the Asar Ghost was, in fact, Achar Gosht – a meat curry cooked in a pickle based sauce - and sought confirmation from the waiter as to whether this was so. He appeared not to know much about 'achar', nor whether Asar Gosht was cooked in a pickle sauce! It turned out to be a dry curry with a distinctly sharp underlying pickle flavour - definitely Achar Gosht - but quite tasty, if a little salty, although the strips of meat were a little ‘chewy’. The Chicken Pathia very good, being sizeable chunks of chicken cooked in a sweet and tangy sauce, which was pleasantly hot, and on both occasions we found this the best of the main dishes.

The other two main dishes on the most recent visit were Balti Lamb Jalfrezi and Chicken Bombay. Before I ordered the Balti Lamb Jalfrezi I asked the waiter what the difference was between the Balti version and the Lamb Jalfrezi listed elsewhere (both at the same price). He didn't know and looked embarrassed, mumbling something about 'special spices' and 'thick sauce'. When pressed on the spices he hadn't a clue, and I resisted the temptation to add to his embarrassment by asking whether the 'thick sauce' of the Balti meant that the standard version came in a thin sauce! I am afraid I am something of a sceptic when it comes to high street curryhouses jumping on the Balti bandwagon, as I am convinced that more often than not there is nothing different between the Balti versions and ordinary version listed (except frequently in price, although commendably not here). Well, I went for the Balti version, and have to say that I found nothing special in it at all. It wasn't even served sizzling in a karahi or with a Nan as Balti should be served, and I doubt I would have been able to tell the difference between that and the standard version had I put it to the test. It was very ordinary and rather tired in flavour, with the strips of lamb tasting more of mutton. As for the Chicken Bombay, I found this bland and, as the recipient described it, 'a bit of a nothing dish really'.

The accompanying Vegetable Bhaji was very good indeed, both previously and on this occasion, with an excellent selection of vegetables well cooked and very well spiced, while the Tarka Dall was also excellent - one of the best I've had for a while. Rice was standard stuff, as was the plain Nan,  but I see from my previous report that was had the Ginger Nan – not commonly listed – last time and found it superb. I reported at the time that 'I would have one every time if they were on offer'. Foolishly I didn't read my own report before I went this time so didn't think to order it! 

As I reported last time, the service was businesslike and matter-of-fact – neither friendly nor unfriendly (for example there were no smiles when we arrived nor from any of the waiters who served us. The first smile was on leaving) but it was swift, polite and efficient. The portions were very generous – too much really in the case of the starters. Prices were about average, but taking into account the size of the portions, very reasonable.

The finishing touches were also there – hot towels, mints and a ‘customer comment form’, which is always a nice touch. However, I noted (as I did last time) that it asked for age group of the customer, starting from ‘under 12’; ‘12-15’ etc, and suggested discussing any aspect of the food or service with ‘The Store Manager’!!! Do I detect a touch of plagiarism somewhere?

The last two visits, which have shown little has changed in the intervening five years, have provided bit of a curate's egg of a meal. However, overall it provides a good standard formula curry in pleasant surroundings, and appears to do a good trade. Despite reservations on some dishes I would have no hesitation in returning, although I'd definitely give the Begun Biraan a miss!