COCO DINER, 330 HIGH STREET, CHATHAM

Those who read these pages regularly will know that I often express myself a little jaded visiting restaurant after restaurant that offer the same old dishes found in high street curryhouses, albeit some do it much better than others, and often yearn for something different and more authentic than the standard high street curries. Well, I’ve found something different in a high street Indian restaurant in the form of Coco Diner, where the food is genuinely Indian (i.e, not run by Bangladeshis but by Indians from Kerala, including the chef) and the food it that of southern India. It is not linked to any other restaurant (although the chef has previously worked in London and, I was told, won or was highly placed in the 2003 national curry chef competition). It opened in the spring of 2008, and I tried to find it shortly afterwards without success, but a recommendation from a reader of this site stirred me into making a second attempt, which was successful. And am I glad I found it as it’s a little gem of a place, so my thanks to my contact who prompted me into action.

The restaurant opened about four months ago, in what was a former pub (although I believe it operated as a pizza house between the pub closing and this restaurant taking the premises). It seats about 50 to 60 in roomy surroundings with plenty of space between the tables. The décor is smart and modern, having lime green walls, plain dark wood flooring and dark wood tables and chairs, which are of good, solid quality, and a small bar. A couple of potted ferns stand just behind the door to add a bit of greenery, behind which are four comfortable easy chairs, presumably to accommodate people who wait for a take-away meal. A interesting feature of the décor, however, is a coloured tiled tableau of Queen Victoria just inside the entrance, which I assume is a relic of the former pub and which, I gather, is antique and a protected feature (and quite rightly so).

Just one look at the menu tells you that this is quite different from the standard high street restaurant as apart from some of the breads and rice, none of the standard dishes are featured. As an example, starters include Njandu Peera (crab meat sautéed with grated coconut, curry leaves and mustard seeds); Karveipullei Yera (tiger prawns deep-fried in a corn flour batter with chilli powder and curry leaves); Batata Bonda (potato balls laced with fresh ginger, coriander and black mustard seeds and then deep fried) and Ethekka Appam (plantain slices dipped in a rice batter a seasoned with sesame seeds and crispy fried), while main dishes are a range of equally different and tempting dishes, covering fish – tiger prawns, sea bass, king fish, tilapia – duck, chicken, lamb and, of course, authentic southern Indian vegetable dishes. It’s not possible to give anywhere near the full range of their menu here, but they do have a very informative website (www.cocodiner.co.uk) which lists their complete menu.

Well, what of the food itself? I was so overcome with discovering such a menu that I was in danger of over-ordering, but resisted with commendable restraint. We had a Karveipullei Yera and Batata Bonda to start, but couldn’t resist having a Uthappam (southern Indian rice pancake, rather like a pizza, with onion and tomato topping) each as well, as you don’t get them outside specialist South Indian restaurants. And they were all memorably delicious. The Uthappams were as described, and came with a pot of Sambar (a south Indian runny vegetable curry of lentils and exotic vegetables – not to be confused with Malaysian Sambal) and a pot of coconut chutney. The Batata comprised 3 pieces, lightly fried and lightly spiced, again with a pot of coconut chutney, while the Karveipulla comprised four tiger prawns, cooked as described above and attractively presented with a tangy pink sauce topping.  I was also greatly tempted by the crab, squid and plantain starters, but these must wait until next time.

For our main courses just we had to have a Masala Dosa (a favourite of my wife when she can get it), which was huge and came with a bowl of Sambar and a pot of coconut chutney. I had the Meen Vevichathu (a Keralan dish of curried king fish). Both were again delicious, the Dosa having plenty of lightly spiced potato filling, while the king fish (four small fillets) were cooked in a tomato and onion sauce with fenugreek, tamarind and a couple of well-cooked chillis. This surrounded a little mound of steamed cassava. We also had some Puliyogare (rice cooked in tamarind juice, mustard seeds, curry leaves and peanuts), which came plated like a small sandcastle and had a delicious piquancy and nutty flavour. What more can I say? The dishes are not for those who like the fieriness of vindaloo, as all have a more delicate balance of flavours, with coconut much in evidence, and a freshness about them that is often lacking in standard high street restaurants.

The service was excellent and friendly, although it’s fair to say that apart from a group of six who came in shortly after us, the place was sadly empty, so the lone waiter wasn’t pushed. Nevertheless, he was charmingly friendly and helpful and made a good impression from the start. The plates were warm (so often not the case), portions were quite sufficient, and the prices were very reasonable for such different, well prepared food.

Two other points that are worth noting is that it is closed on a Monday evening, and they do serve beer (and wine etc) despite being south Indian (many south Indian restaurants, particularly in London, don’t).

If I have one criticism of the place it is that whoever undertook the market research in determining where such a restaurant should open sadly misjudged the area. In short, it is not the best area of town. Certainly there may be no shortage of the ‘twelve pints of lager and a vindaloo brigade’, but it’s definitely not that sort of restaurant, and I fear that its position may well be a major factor in deterring people who might otherwise jump at the chance to sample something different. Added to this, parking does not seem to be easy. There is no street parking, and I parked some way away (although I wasn’t sure exactly where the restaurant was when I did so). I was told that there is a public car park just behind, but if so then it is not clearly signposted. Such a restaurant situated in a former country pub, with its own car park would, I am sure, do very well, but I hope that their current position does not put people off, as it’s worth finding. However, I gather from the waiter that they recognise their position is a drawback and are already contemplating relocating, probably somewhere else in the Medway towns, possibly Rochester as it is more a tourist area. Whether they stay or move, it is a very welcome addition to the local curry scene – indeed, the curry scene generally as they claim to be the only south Indian restaurant in Kent – and I wish them well. Despite the location I will certainly return, as it’s the best Indian meal that I’ve had for some time.

Malcolm Wilkins – July 2008