Established in 1975 this was, as far as I am aware, the only Afghan restaurant in the country until fairly recently when another opened in Islington. As far as I know they are the only two in the country (but watch this space!).

It is a comfortable restaurant with attractive and nicely faded decor which gives a homely air. Bigger than it appears from the outside, it goes back to a second dining area at the rear and probably seats over 50 in all, although it never seems full (indeed, at lunch times it was always surprisingly empty, but it is now closed at lunch time).

An interesting menu although, having been fortunate enough to have spent some time in Afghanistan, I can’t say it is all typical Afghani. For example, there are dishes with such things as prawns and monkfish on the menu and I can’t recall those in Afghanistan - you don’t get many pawns or monkfish in the Hindu Kush!! Having said that, however, there are meat, kebab and vegetable dishes which are more typically Afghan and it’s all quite reasonably priced, particularly the lunch time specials (although on the last occasion the special board wasn’t showing, but on enquiring they mentioned a couple of things which we could have as specials. It’s worth asking).

Complimentary small fried filled patties with a carrot chutney (beware - it looks innocuous but it’s hotter than it first seems!) are served while studying the menu and ordering. The aubergine starters (Boranee Bonjon) served with either goats cheese or yoghurt are always a favourite of mine and are delicious. I have never tried fish but the main dishes of meat (lamb) are also always first class. Dalgosht with very tender pieces of lamb in a thick lentil sauce (more like a Dhansak with attitude). Spiced roast lamb so tender it falls off the bone. Vegetable dishes again excellent and the rice a little different from standard Indian being a little drier and crunchier. Nan also a bit different being flatter and a bit crispier than those served in Indian restaurants. Quite authentic this and the only thing missing for real authenticity was the bits of dirt you get in Afghanistan!

As well as the complimentary patties to start, a small complimentary fruit ice is provided after the starters as a mouth cleanser, and free sweet fried crispy confections with coffee at the end. Prices more than those at the more basic establishments in London on which I have reported but very reasonable (especially lunch time specials) for the style and type of restaurant it is, although a 10% service charge is added to the bill.

Portions adequate although they may not satisfy the hearty appetite so don’t err on the side of caution if worrying about over ordering

Service friendly and efficient without being over bearing. The waiter and manager now recognise me despite my visits being only two or three times a year. It’s probably the fact I have been to Afghanistan (which is more than the waiter can say) and this probably jogs his memory as he always brings it up. He tells me he doesn’t have many customers who have travelled through Afghanistan. I don’t doubt it!

Malcolm Wilkins - April 2003