THE BOMBAY COTTAGE, 52 SCOTGATE

Stamford’s second Indian restaurant, being established for 14 years according to the manager, which would give its origins in 1992. Housed in one of Stamford’s old cottage-like stone buildings it looks cosy and enticing from the outside, which is always a good start for attracting custom. Inside is equally pleasing on the eye, with most of the 60 seating in a pleasant, restfully decorated dining area up a couple of stairs by the small bar. Small chandeliers hung from a beamed roof, the tables were well spaced, Indian pictures on the walls and a rather eclectic colour scheme of green tablecloths, light pinkish walls and a blue carpet.

The menu contained all the usual dishes plus the odd less familiar name. More surprisingly is that the menu didn’t list some of the stock dishes – for example, Pathia, Aloo Gobi or Vegetable Bhaji as side dishes, or Chapati - but they will do them (the two vegetable examples are listed under main dishes, and they will do a smaller version if requested, even though it’s not listed under ‘side vegetables’)

The Onion Bhaji starter comprised five small flattish patties with a salad garnish. They were lightly spiced with a good texture, and unusually they were made with lentils and onions, which made a pleasant and tasty difference to the norm. I had Bombay Chat Pati, which the menu described as ‘Bombay’s roadside favourite’. I asked whether it was like Bhel Puri or other authentic snacks found on Chowpatti Beach in Bombay, and with a winning smile and a wink the waiter said it was the Bangladeshi version of it. Good for him! Well, although it wasn’t like Bhel Puri, as there were no crunchy bits in it and less chilli, it was tasty – a mix of chick peas, potato, egg and spices – and had a very nice piquancy about it.

I had Achar Gosht (or Achar Gocht-Ka-Salan to give it its full menu title) for my main course, and wasn’t disappointed. Small, well-cooked pieces of tender lamb cooked in a thickish light-coloured sauce had the required pickle flavour, and left a distinct tingle on the tongue without being overwhelmingly hot. My wife’s Tandoori Chicken was a good standard, being of dark colour, well marinated and with a pleasant flavour, served sizzling with plenty of onions. We had Bombay Niramish as an accompaniment, which was a mix of diced potato, tomato, okra, aubergine and onion with a fairly mild spicing. It was a dry dish, rather like a stir-fry, and as the veggies were finely diced, there was no overall flavour of any of them but made a very pleasant moderately spiced accompaniment (although I’m not sure I would have wanted it as a main dish, which was where it was listed). The Peshwari Nan had a good filling with fruit pieces (rather than just a smear of coconut paste so often found), but it was disappointingly heavy – had it been light and fluffy with the filling it would have been excellent, but sadly it wasn’t. Rice was the standard stuff.

Prices were about average, portions good and the service excellent. The waiters were all smartly attired in uniform, all were smiling, chatty and friendly. None looked rushed, and dishes were served with a calm, friendly competence. As my wife remarked, it looked as though they were working smoothly together as a team.

Two other points on the service worth noting was that firstly the pickle pots were brought with the starters, even though we had not had popadoms, and left through the meal, which I thought a good touch. The other point is that, as is usually our practice, we asked for a jug of water with the meal. The water was served promptly, with ice, lemon and a smile, but in a relatively small glass. Each time I asked for more water it was brought speedily and without fuss, so we have no complaints, but it would have been easier to provide a jug in the first instance. Perhaps an investment in a few jugs might save a waiter’s time.

All in all a good meal in comfortable surroundings served by friendly staff, which is always a good combination for success.

Malcolm Wilkins – August 2006