THE BOMBAY, 6 THE STRAIT

This is Lincoln’s oldest Indian restaurant, being established in 1955 by a Mr Bakar. The restaurant is situated at the beginning of the steep hill that takes you from up from the newer part of town to the old town around the cathedral and castle. It seats about sixty on two floors, although the upper floor is used as the overflow and lacks the atmosphere of downstairs. The restaurant (downstairs) still retains a slightly old-fashioned air, with light coloured décor and each table abutting a small, recessed arch providing seating in train carriage style. The restaurant is still under the same (Bangladeshi) family ownership as when it opened, and the menu still invites anyone with a complaint to ask for Mr Bakar, although unless you are a spiritualist this may be difficult as he passed away about five years ago. However, his name still lives on, as inscribed at the top of each column in the restaurant is A & M BAKAR. 

The menu contains all the usual dishes. Although it doesn’t list Chicken Chat among the starters (odd, as it is listed on their take-away menu) they were happy to do this. I’m glad they did, as it was very good – small pieces of chicken in a tangy sauce on a small puree. Onion Bhajias (3 small round style) were also good – crispy, light and tasty, with a pleasant riata. Both were just the right size (not too much, although perfectly adequate) for an appetiser.

My main dish of Chicken Jhall Ferozi (sic) was excellent. Plenty of chillies properly cooked into the dish gave it enough zip, with the spicing and tandoori-grilled chicken giving a very flavoursome dish overall. Tandoori Chicken was also excellent – two generous pieces of well marinated and lots of sizzling onions – although unusually it came with a pillau rice and a curry sauce (not that we were complaining as I could adjust the order accordingly). The curry sauce was a pleasant, if uncommon, addition to tandoori chicken and made a tasty accompaniment to the meal as a whole.

Overall the food was very tasty indeed, and above average for a high street formula curry. The only thing (apart from rice and bread) that was about average was the mixed vegetable bhaji.

Not sure about the table reservation system (my usual area of complaint), as although I had telephoned to reserve a table there were a couple of tables unoccupied on arrival, and I wasn’t asked about my reservation. I like to think they would have kept a table for me had they been crowded, but there was no ‘reserved’ notice on the table, so I have my doubts! However, the service was very welcoming, friendly, attentive and efficient and could not be faulted.

Prices and portions about average, and all in all we enjoyed a better than average curry.

Malcolm Wilkins - July 2005