BAY OF BENGAL, 2 FRY STREET, HOLSWORTHY

The restaurant is unconnected with any other Indian restaurants, being run by an English lady who told me that it was opened some six years ago by her Bangladeshi partner. However, she said he was later 'deported' (I didn't like to ask why!) and she has continued to run it ever since. She has a Bangladeshi chef, and the young waiter is also Banglasdeshi, although unconnected with the owners (he seems to have drifted round various Indian restaurants, including in London and Maidstone in Kent before ending up in Holsworthy).

A small restaurant, it seats about 40 in comfortable but unremarkable surroundings, apart from a large fish tank along the back wall. A fairly standard menu listing all the usual suspects, including a novel 'Dhansak Pathia' in addition to each of these dishes being listed separately.

The Chicken Chat starter was very salty, but the waiter - either by acute hearing or some fore knowledge - asked if it was too salty and whipped it away to be changed when I confirmed it was. The next one wasn't quite so bad, and reasonably tasty without being anything other than average, but lacked the sharp tanginess of Chat. Onion Bhajias (3 round style) were stodgy and not particularly appetising.

Despite never seeing a combined 'Dhansak Pathia' listed separately on a menu before, I ordered a standard Chicken Tikka Pathia. It was OK, and fairly hot, although not the thick dark brown dryish gravy associated with the dish (in fact the opposite - fairly thin light brown sauce). Tandoori Chicken was not particularly 'moreish' - rather greasy with a taste neither of us could quite define, and I was more likely grilled rather than cooked in a tandoori oven.

The other dishes - Mixed Vegetable etc. were pretty run of the mill - nothing really to complain of but nothing to take them above mediocre.

The portions were also about average, as were the prices. The service was efficient and friendly, which is not surprising seeing as we were the only ones there for the whole evening (one table taken when we arrived, but they had finished their meal and left shortly after our arrival). This was slightly discouraging for a Saturday, as although it was mid-January, there is not much alternative in Holsworthy (in fact, I was amazed to find an Indian restaurant to be honest). Also I noted that the delivery lady only made one delivery during the couple of hours we were there, and only one person came in for a take-away. On the assumption that Saturday is usually one of the - if not the - busiest of the week it's surprising they've  managed to keep going for six years if such sparse business is the norm, even if it was January.

But I hope they do keep going, as despite the unexciting and distinctly average nature of the food, the town deserves an alternative to pub grub and fish & chips. However, if I do find myself in Holsworthy again in the evening (which is pretty unlikely), I think it will be the pub for me.

Malcolm Wilkins - January 2008