Opened in May 1997 by Mr Sazzadur Rahman, it is an interestingly designed restaurant which seats 60. At street level is the bar/reception area (attended by a sari clad lady) and just two tables, a four-seater and a two-seater. The two main dining areas (smoking and non smoking), which seat 28 each, are up or down a few steps - like a mezzanine and lower ground floor. (Interesting to note that the lower non smoking room was full while the upper smoking area had plenty of seats available.) As the kitchen is a ground floor level the smartly dressed waiters have to be particularly energetic to cope with the stairs for virtually every table served! Dark wood walls with lots of mirrors, red tablecloths and a candle flickering in a glass lantern on each table gives a nice ambience although, apart from the discreet Indian music and waiters, it doesn’t give any appearance of an Indian restaurant.

As well as most of the usuals the menu contains a number of more imaginative dishes, although some are quite pricey. For example some starters were £25 (for two) and the wine list included a wine at £275 at bottle (a Haut Brion ‘86 which I imagine must be better than your ordinary plonk, although I do wondered how many bottles they sell as an accompaniment to curry). However, you are allowed to bring your own wine for a £2 per bottle corkage charge.

I started with Aubergine Puri, which was half an aubergine, fried and topped with a creamy chicken mixture (rather like chicken supreme). It was extremely mild - apart from the raw chilli on top - but was pleasant enough. It was very substantial and decoratively served with slices of cucumber and radish neatly arranged round the plate. Onion Bhajias (3) were light, crispy on the outside and delicately spiced. The plates for the main meal were brought ready decorated with half a tomato and parsley sprig which was a different and attractive touch. My wife chose a Chicken Tikka Biryani which was excellent - well cooked with ample tasty chicken tikka and accompanied by a thin but tasty vegetable curry My Chicken Balti Dhansak was also excellent - not particularly hot but a good, spicy underlying flavour. My wife, who often finds Dhansak to hot for her, was impressed. The Sag Aloo was also first class.

Prices quite high - the most expensive in Truro and considerably more than all the others in Cornwall that I’ve seen (and that’s most of them!) However, the high prices are reflected in the quality of the food and decor so one can’t complain too much (the locals don’t seem to as it was full up and outside the main tourist season). Portions ample and, although we ordered slightly less than usual there was quite sufficient for us. It’s worth noting that take away containers are not provided for any food unfinished - perhaps a factor in our not over ordering!

It’s difficult to make a definitive judgment on the service as it was a mixed bag. For example, on being given the menu I asked for a gin and tonic before ordering the food. Some twenty minutes later the waiter came to take our food order but no drinks had appeared. I cancelled the G&T as I didn’t want to rush it if the food arrived promptly. However, a G&T was served shortly after with apologies and compliments of the house. After that our service was fine - efficient and polite - although I overheard the table behind complaining they had been waiting for 45 minutes since ordering their starters with no sign of any food coming. Also, my contact in Cornwall tells me that their booking system is unreliable (a continual moan of mine with Indian restaurants). He tells me that he tried to book for 8pm, to be told that bookings were either 7 or 9 on a Saturday in order to get two sittings. On arrival at 9 they weren't ready, and after waiting 25 minutes he departed for the Ganges. Service, it seems, is not their strongest suit when they’re busy.

My food report was from a visit in September 2002, when all in all it was a good meal, if expensive by local comparison, well presented and served in pleasant, comfortable surroundings. Much better than the average curry house and probably amongst the best in Cornwall for decor and ambience (although not for service!). I am told the chef has since left, so things may have changed food-wise since then.

Malcolm Wilkins - April 2004