CALCUTTA CLUB, LONDON ROAD

Situated on the main A224 road, this restaurant opened in about 2000 as The Bengal Mangrove and offered an up-market restaurant with imaginative dishes, and was one of a chain of good quality Indian restaurants owned by the  Choudhury family. Some years ago it changed its name to Calcutta Club following a face-lift, but is still under the same ownership and management. A sizeable car park provides ample parking and it provides about 180 seats in spacious surroundings and modern decor, with part being in an extensive conservatory overlooking the small garden.

A glance at the extensive menu indicates that it is far from the average high street Indian restaurant, the dishes being more Indian than Bangladeshi and listing many things that are not found on the everyday Indian restaurant menu. Among the extensive list of enticing starters I noticed Gol Goppas (a small puffed-up light crispy bread that is served with a potato curry and a spicy tamarind water). These are usually served by street vendors from small handcart-like street stalls in India, and that was the last time I had them, so this unusual dish excited me from the beginning.

The starters were uniformly good. My Gol Goppas (called Calcutta Gup-Chup on the menu) comprised only five small crispy round shells, filled with potatoes curry and a side bowl of tamarind water As there were four of us, with my companions eyeing my choice curiously, by the time they had each tried one (to general approval) it only left 2 for me, so I had to order another plate. The other starters - Palak Patta (spinach and potatoes with coriander, mint, yoghurt and a tamarind sauce), Mixed Vegetable Pakoras and Titli King Prawn (butterflied king prawn) were also all good.

Of the main dishes I preferred my Dhaba Gosht, described as the typical roadside spicy lamb found in India (in the Dhabas - roadside cafes). It was deliciously spicy without being too hot, cooked on the bone which added flavour to the sauce. The other dishes were Chicken Dhansak (one of the few more common dishes on the menu), Chicken Jhaaaal Walla (essentially Chicken Vindaloo or Madras with potatoes) and Manchurian Chooza (described as small pieces of chicken tikka fried with spring onion, tomatoes, chilli, ginger paste and fresh coriander). The Dhansak was good, the Jhaaaal Walla was a pleasantly spicy Madras-style curry, while the Manchurian Chooza was not particularly to my liking as I found the sauce very thin and hot, although without the depth of flavour or spice as the others. However, having said that they were all good. 

Vegetable dishes - Avial (a Keralan mixed vegetable dish with coconut, tamarind and ginger and fairly dry) was very tasty, as was the Gobhi Aloo Masala. Pillau Rice and other accompaniments up to the usual expectations.

We visited on a Tuesday evening when, although there were a good few tables taken,  there was plenty of spare capacity so service was good, although on a busy Saturday night they may be pushed. On the debit side  I did find them a bit pushy with the drinks, asking if we wanted more when only two thirds down our glasses (and at £4.75 per pint of draft Cobra, I imagine they wanted to sell as much as possible!). The portions of the main courses were perfectly adequate, although the starters were as they should be -appetisers rather than designed to satisfy hunger! Prices above average, as one would expect from this sort of place, and a 12.5% service charge is also added to the bill, although I was pleased to see that they did not adopt the extremely irritating practice of leaving a space on the credit card slip for gratuity, even though the service charge is automatically added to the bill as they did when it was the Bengal Mangrove (then a service charge of 10%, so that has gone up as well)

Definitely not lager lout territory or a traditional high street curry house and being better than average will probably ensure its success - particularly in the area of Kent it is situated.

Malcolm Wilkins - May 2010