BENGAL DINER, 98, KING STREET

NNB I see from the 2007 Yellow Pages that it doesn't appear at all! I believe yet another restaurant has opened on the site, but unsure whether the same ownership. Updates please! (Malcolm Wilkins - July 2007)

Until this uncertainty is resolved I retain the most recent report.

This is the site of the first Indian restaurant in Kent, opened in 1965 by Mr S Meah and run by him until the summer of 2003 when he retired. Its previous name was The Curry Inn and I reported on it about a year ago when I found the food good, the service laid back, prices cheap and the décor sticking to the imitation flock wall and traditional old Indian restaurant layout. The restaurant has now had a change of ownership, being run by the same people who own the Shamrat in Maidstone, and a change of chef. I wish Mr Meah a long and happy retirement and went to try out the new restaurant.

At first sight it is little different that before. Still the long line of tables set closely together along each wall and seating about 50, and the furniture looks the same. And it was just as empty. However, the imitation flock wallpaper has been replaced by plain cream paint and the pictures are gone. The service was also sharper and more friendly (Mr Meah apart, of course). The menu largely followed the same extensive pattern as before, as did the prices. We had the same meal for comparison purposes.

The starter of Onion Bhajia showed there was a different chef. Previously it was four large (and I mean large - cricket ball size) round type without salad garnish, while this time they were two large flat type with salad and riata. They were fairly solid but with plenty of onion and tastily spiced.

Chicken Tikka Pathia, which as before included a full portion of rice, was fairly spicy although not quite so hot as previously (I described it a year ago as having “a strong, gutsy spicing and hotness which set the mouth a-tingle”). Nevertheless, it was quite acceptable. The Tandoori Chicken was a standard version – probably not quite so tasty as previously (reported as being “darkly coloured and marinated to impart a char grilled effect in places”) It seemed a typical high street tandoori chicken although my wife – the main recipient – felt there was an unidentifiable underlying taste which she could only describe as rather cheesy. She felt it was below the average offering, and who am I to argue. However, we both agreed that the Dry Mixed Vegetable was very good, with large pieces of vegetables lightly cooked and very pleasantly spiced, and better than average (last time was a pretty standard version).

All in all a typical high street curry house serving formula curry. The prices are still very reasonable (still under £20 for the two of us), portions quite sufficient, if slightly less than previously, and the service friendly and efficient  But now that it has lost the claim of being the longest standing Indian restaurant in Kent, and lost its old fashioned flock walls and ambience of well-used, slightly faded history, it has lost some of the reasons for going there. There are better Indian restaurants in Maidstone (its sister restaurant the Shamrat for one) and it is in the ‘dead’ end of town. Nobody else came in the whole time we were there, not even for a take-away, and nobody had been there before us. The manager said it was ‘quiet' (dead more like) during the week but did its trade Friday and Saturday evenings. With this scenario I can’t really see it lasting, which will be a shame given its history* (NB See comments at start of report).

Malcolm Wilkins - November 2003